There was an interesting research study conducted by Oxford University that involved juggling.  The study, led by Dr Heidi Johansen-Berg of the Department of Clinical Neurology in 2009, demonstrated that learning a new task or skill resulted in changes in the white matter of the brain. (see More Info).  The complex new skill they chose to teach the study participants was juggling!  Juggling also builds hand-eye coordination; helps improve concentration and focus; and helps improve rhythm and timing.  There’s a strong case to be made for learning to juggle.  For those already able to juggle, there are always more juggling techniques and patterns to learn as well as more and different objects to juggle. 
My online research suggests the ideal object for beginner jugglers is a sphere shape, about 2.5 inch in diameter, stuffed with millet, and weighing about 130 grams.  The size fits comfortably in most hands.  The shape flies through the air smoothly.  The millet stuffing is malleable making the balls easier to catch.  The balls stay put when dropped—they don’t bounce or roll away.  It’s surprisingly easy to make felt balls to fit this bill.  Actually juggling them, though, has proven to be more difficult.  I’ve gleaned a few tips for the basic, 3-ball, cascading juggle which I share towards the end of this post. 
This post includes step-by-step instructions to make a set of felt juggling balls and a convenient, carrying pouch. 
5 Felt Juggling Balls with Pouch  @FanningSparks
The felt juggling ball is made with 6 panels or, more accurately, it is a hosohedron with 6 spherical lunes.  My fabric pouch is embellished with a fun juggler—you may recognize this popular emoji!  The possibilities for embellishing the pouch are endless.  For instance, you could simply use a colorful fabric or you could personalize it with the juggler’s name.  The construction techniques are similar to those used to make the Valentine’s Juggling Hearts from my last post.  Basic sewing skills are used—the balls are sewn by hand and the pouch is sewn by machine. 
Supplies Needed
The following supplies and materials are needed for this project:
. Template – Felt Juggling Balls – Complimentary Download to print the template for the lunar panels.
. Paper – For printing template.
. Felt – THREE 8” x 5” pieces of Wool Blend Felt in your choice of color(s).
. Fabric – 10” x 13” piece of sturdy woven fabric for pouch.  To add a design like the emoji juggler, choose a light colored fabric with at least 35% polyester content (the polyester insures permanency of the ink transfer). 
. Thread  – To match the felt and fabric.
. Embroidery Floss (Optional) – Can be used to embellish the pouch with felt applique.  Alternatively, you could use fabric glue.
. Millet – Approximately 300g (12oz) for 3 balls.  I found Hulled Millet at the grocery store.  Alternatively, you could use small grained rice.  These small grains are, of course, NOT suitable for small children.
. Cord – TWO 16-24” lengths of cord, ribbon or string to use as the drawstring.
Supplies Needed for Felt Juggling Balls and Pouch   @FanningSparks
Tools and Equipment Needed
. Printer 
. Sewing Machine
. Iron
. Scissors – Scissors with short, sharp blades such as embroidery or applique scissors.
. Sewing Needle
. Pins – Sewing pins preferably with flat heads.
. Marker – Fabric marker or chalk.
. Container – A bowl, dish or plastic container to hold the millet while filling the heart.
. Funnel – Small funnel for filling the hearts with millet.
. Spoon
. Ruler
. Sulky Iron-On Transfer Pen (Optional) – This handy permanent ink marker can be used to embellish the pouch. 
. Safety Pin or Bodkin – For pulling cord through casing.
Instructions to Make Felt Juggling Balls and Pouch
Step 1 Prepare Template
  Download Felt Juggling Balls – Complimentary Download to print the template for the lunar panel and end circle.  Take care to ensure the scale is accurate on your printed version.  See specifics in the download document.
Step 2 Cut Parts  Trim excess paper from the pattern leaving a narrow border around the outside of the shapes.  Pin pattern to the felt using flat-headed pins.  Cut out the shapes (paper and felt) using scissors with short, sharp blades. 
Cut Spherical Lune Panels from Felt for Juggling Balls   @FanningSparksCut 6 lunar panels and 2 end circles for EACH ball.  Use a fabric marker or chalk to clearly mark the wrong sides of the cut pieces.
Cut 6 Spherical Lune Panels and 2 Circles for Juggling Balls   @FanningSparksStep 3 Sew Juggling Ball  Align a pair of matching lunar panels with RIGHT sides together.  Pin.  Check that the two pieces are identical especially at the tips.  Sew only one side of the lunar panels.  Use a single strand of matching sewing thread and a whipstitch/ overcast stitch (or your stitch of choice).  Note: I’m using white (instead of blue) thread for visibility in the photo below.  Take your time to firmly secure the lunar panels with small, strong, even stitches, spaced close together, catching both edges in each stitch.  
Sew Together 1 Side of 2 Panels for Juggling Balls   @FanningSparksRepeat this process with the other 2 sets of lunar panels.  You should have 3 pairs of lunar panels stitched together along one side.  Prepare to sew 2 sets of lunar panels together by tucking one set of panels inside the other.  Ensure the RIGHT sides are facing.  Once again, take care to align the tips.  Connect the final set of lunar panels in this same manner.
Check all the seams to ensure there are no gaps or weak spots.  Do this by inserting your finger into the ball and running it along the length of each seam.  If you are able to see your finger through the seam, go back and reinforce that section with additional stitches. 
Sew 6 Lune Panels Together for Juggling Balls   @FanningSparksSew the final seam connecting the first and sixth lunar panel sides.  Stop sewing about 1” before the tip leaving a small opening for turning and filling.  At this point, you may want to sew the other 2 balls together.  Follow the same process, as outlined in this step, for each set of 6 lunar panels.
Sew Final Seam Leaving 1” Opening for Juggling Balls   @FanningSparksStep 4 Fill Juggling Ball  Gradually turn the ball right side out.  Take care not to stretch the felt at the opening.  Insert finger into the turned ball.  Run finger along each seam, firmly pressing it smooth and flat.  Working over a container or bowl, insert a small funnel into the unsewn opening in the ball.  Use a spoon to slowly scoop the millet into the funnel.  Carefully tamp down the millet so it runs into the ball.  Remove funnel.  Spoon small amounts of millet directly into the ball.  Use the spoon handle to gently pack the millet into the ball.
Fill Felt Ball with Millet for Juggling Balls   @FanningSparksFill the ball as full as possible while ensuring you can still grasp the edges of the opening.  Pin the opening.  Sew the opening closed with a whipstitch/ overcast stitch.  Repeat on the other 2 juggling balls.
Step 5 Sew End Circles  Fold a felt end circle in half to find its center.  Align this center point with the end point of a felt ball where the tips of the panels converge.  Pin.  Sew felt circle in place with a whipstitch/ overcast stitch (or your stitch of choice) with tiny, tight stitches.  Repeat at the other end of the ball.  Repeat on the other 2 balls.
Sew Small Felt Circle at End of Ball for Juggling Balls   @FanningSparksStep 6 Cut Pouch Parts  Cut TWO 10” x 6 ½ “ rectangles from fabric. 
Step 7 Embellish Pouch Front   I chose to embellish my pouch with an emoji juggler using a combination of permanent ink and felt applique. As noted above, you can customize the embellishment in any way you wish or you can skip it.  Here’s the process I followed. 
The key to this treatment is a Sulky Iron-On Transfer Pen in black ink.  These pens are designed to transfer designs onto fabric for needlework projects.  You simply trace (or draw) your design on paper with the fine-tipped marker and then use a hot iron to transfer the design onto the fabric.  You can embroider the design or, since the transferred design is permanent, it can be left as is.  The biggest advantage of this technique, in my opinion, is that you can perfect your design on paper first.  Create your design on paper and then trace it with the transfer pen.  If the design isn’t quite the way you want it, simply start with another piece of paper.  The transferred image will be exactly the same as your paper tracing.  
Be sure to follow the manufacturer’s instructions for the correct way to use the pens and transfer your image.   
The below photo shows the emoji juggler I used for my design.  The original, on plain printer paper, is shown on the right.  I used a copier to make a copy for tracing.  Then I carefully traced the lines with the transfer pen.  Because you can’t erase the transfer pen, it took a few tries to get a clean tracing.  The copy is shown, face down, on my fabric on the left.  Note the design is reversed on the fabric.  You’ll want to take that into account if your design has a specific direction.  For instance, a design with lettering or words would need to be mirrored before tracing with the transfer pen.
Transfer Design with Sulky Iron-On Transfer Pens for Juggling Balls Pouch   @FanningSparksI chose to add a few felt appliques for a little color and punch on my emoji juggler.  I simply cut these pieces, a hat, 3 balls, bowtie and suspenders, from small pieces of felt.  Then I hand-stitched them into place with a blanket stitch using 2-strands of matching embroidery floss.  Alternatively, you could use fabric glue to attach felt pieces.
Permanent Ink Design Embellished with Felt Applique for Juggling Balls Pouch   @FanningSparksStep 8 Sew Pouch  Note: Take care not to touch the transferred design with a hot iron as you construct the pouch. 
Use a sewing machine with matching thread to sew the pouch. Start by finishing all the edges of the 2 pouch panels.  Use a zigzag or overcast stitch to prevent fraying.  
The drawstring pouch opens at the top.  A casing, made by folding and stitching down the top edge of the fabric panels, holds the drawstring cord.  To make the casing, place the front pouch panel on your ironing surface with the wrong side facing up.  At the right and left sides of the panel, measure down 2½“ from the top and mark.  Fold over ¼“ along the 2½“ sections and press.  Sew the folded sections stitching close to the edge.  Repeat on back pouch panel.  Return the front pouch panel to your ironing surface with the wrong side facing up.  Fold down ½“ from the top edge.  Press.  Fold down another 1”.  Press.  Repeat on back pouch panel.
Prepare Top of Pouch Panels for Casing for Juggling Balls Pouch   @FanningSparksPin folds.  Make a tiny snip into the seam allowances on the sides just below the folded edge.  Sew across the top edge of the front pouch panel.  Sew a second seam along the folded edge.  Repeat with back pouch panel.
Sew Casing at Top of Pouch Panels for Juggling Balls Pouch   @FanningSparksPrepare to sew front and back pouch panels together.  Place the pouch panels on your working surface with the right sides together.  Align edges and pin. Stitch ¼” seam along the sides and bottom—beginning and ending at the folded edge. Turn the pouch right side out.  Push out the seams and corners.  Press edges. 
Use a safety pin or bodkin to pull the cord through the casing.  One cord will enter and exit on the right side of the pouch.  The other cord will enter and exit on the left side of the pouch.  Knot the ends of the cord.  Close the pouch by pulling the knotted cord ends in opposite directions. Open the pouch by pulling the panels apart.
Here’s my finished pouch with my new juggling balls.  Let the games begin!
Finished Pouch with Felt Juggling Balls   @FanningSparksThere are a number of free online resources that will teach you how to juggle.  I suggest checking out the videos on the International Jugglers Association website (see More Info) or on YouTube.  Look for a 3-Ball Cascade—this seems to be the easiest technique for beginners to learn.  Here are a few tips I gleaned by comparing several resources:

  1. Start by tossing and catching one ball. Add a second ball after you can reliably complete 20 tosses without a drop. Add a third ball after you reach the same level with 2 balls.
  2. Don’t look at your hands while juggling. Instead look forward at, or above, eye level and let the balls enter your field of vision. Some sources suggest taping an “X” on the wall and focusing your eyes on the X. 
  3. Cup the ball softly in the palm of your hand. Start with the ball in your dominant hand. For 3 balls, start with 2 balls in your dominant hand—one in the palm and the other in the middle of your fingers.
  4. Learn to throw consistently—from both hands. Toss the ball in a smooth arc. Every toss should reach the same height.  Tosses should be parallel to your body.
  5. Develop a smooth rhythm. Some sources suggest saying “toss” and “catch” as you go. When you’re tossing 2 balls, you should hear “toss, toss, catch, catch”.  The sequence for tossing 3 balls is “toss, toss, catch, toss, catch, catch”. 
  6. Expect to drop the ball. Some sources suggest practicing over a bed or sofa so it’s easier to retrieve dropped balls.
  7. All sources emphasize the importance of practicing over time.

After you’ve mastered the basics, you may want to add more balls or try new techniques.  Or you could strive to replicate the Flying Karamazov Brothers’ signature move called the Danger/Terror Trick.  “They gradually introduce 9 items (ukulele, skillet, fish, egg, block of dry ice, salt shaker, cleaver, torch and bottle of champagne) – then juggle them all at once only to end up cooking the fish and the egg in the skillet and drinking the champagne!”  

More Info

You can download the project template here: Felt Juggling Balls – Complimentary Download.
You may also enjoy the post Valentine’s Juggling Hearts – DIY Tutorial
There’s a wealth of information, including tutorials for jugglers,  on the International Jugglers Association website.
You can learn more about how Juggling Enhances Connections in the Brain from the Oxford University study here.

Today’s Takeaways

1. There’s a strong case to be made for learning to juggle.
2. Equip yourself with the proper tools when learning a new skill or task.
3. Consider making your own felt juggling balls with today’s tutorial.
Peg - FanningSparks Author

Share a little love this Valentine’s Day with a small, handmade gift—juggling hearts adorned with hugs, kisses and sweet wishes.  The set of three cheerful red felt hearts are made to juggle.  The snazzy, drawstring pouch is made of white felt and provides convenient storage.  It’s a happy Valentine’s theme in red and white sprinkled with embroidered X’s, O’s and hearts.
Valentine’s Juggling Hearts with Pouch   @FanningSparks
This is a fun, uncomplicated project which requires basic sewing—embroidery and hand stitching for the hearts and simple machine stitching for the pouch.  The design features XOXOs and mini hearts but can easily be customized.  The felt hearts are a good size and weight for juggling—they are about 3½“ across and weigh about 45 grams/ 1.6oz.  In comparison, balls measuring 2.5” and weighing 130 grams/ 4.6oz are typically recommended for serious beginner jugglers (watch for my next post for more on this subject).  Today’s post includes step-by-step instructions to make your own Valentine’s Juggling Hearts and drawstring pouch.  Let’s get started.
Supplies Needed
. Template – Download Valentines Juggling Hearts – Complimentary Download to print the template for the hearts and the embroidery.
. Paper – For printing template.
. Tissue or Parchment Paper
. Felt – Wool Blend Felt 12” x 8” in red and 10” x 13 in white.  See *TIP Regarding Felt below.
. Thread  – In red and white to match the felt.
. Embroidery Floss – In red and white.
. Millet – Approximately 150g (5oz).  I found Hulled Millet at the grocery store for about $2.40 USD per pound.  Alternatively, you could use small grained rice.  These small grains are, of course, NOT suitable for small children.
. Ribbon – 15” of 1” grosgrain ribbon to decorate the top of the drawstring pouch.  Alternatively, pieces of red felt could be used.
. Cord – TWO 16-24” lengths of cord, ribbon or string to use as the drawstring.
*TIP: Regarding Felt: Felt is available in different levels of quality.  Simply put, the higher the wool content, the better the felt.
. 100% Wool Felt  Experts recommend 100% Merino wool felt for special, heirloom projects.  They report that 100% wool felt is easier to work with,  lasts longer, keeps its shape better, stays strong, is less likely to pill, and has a natural resistance to staining, water and mildew.  It is pricey, though, and is only available from specialty sellers (several have Etsy shops).
. Wool Blend Felt  Next on the quality scale would be wool blend felt.  Typically wool is blended with rayon such as 35% wool/65% rayon or 20% wool/80% rayon.  These two fibers work well together making a strong durable felt. It is available in a rainbow of colors and highly recommended for handmade felt projects.  Wool blend felt is ideal for this juggling heart project.
. Eco-fi Polyester Felt  The next two grades do not contain wool.  Eco-fi polyester felt (“Kunin Eco-fi” seems to be a prominent brand) is made from post-consumer recycled plastic bottles.
. Craft Felt   Craft felt is 100% polyester or acrylic.  It is thin and prone to pilling and stretching.  It’s inexpensive making it ideal for children’s crafts or temporary, large-scale decorations, such as banners, photo booths and event backdrops.

Tools and Equipment Needed
. Printer – For printing template and patterns.
. Sewing Machine
. Iron
. Scissors – Scissors with short, sharp blades such as embroidery or applique scissors.
. Needles – 1 for hand sewing with thread and 1 for embroidering with floss.
. Pins – Sewing pins preferably with flat heads.
. Container – A bowl, dish or plastic container to hold the millet while filling the heart.
. Funnel – Small funnel for filling the hearts with millet.
. Spoon
. Chopstick – Or similar thin stick to settle millet when filling the heart.  Alternatively, use the handle of the spoon if it fits in the heart opening.
. Ruler
. Safety Pin or Bodkin – For pulling cord through casing.

Instructions to Make Valentine’s Juggling Hearts and Drawstring Pouch
Step 1 Prepare Template  Download Valentines Juggling Hearts – Complimentary Download to print the template for the hearts and the embroidery pattern.  Take care to ensure the scale is accurate on your printed version.  See specifics in the download document.
Step 2 Cut Hearts  Trim excess paper from the pattern leaving a narrow border around the outside of the heart.  Pin pattern to the felt using flat-headed pins.  Cut out the heart (paper and felt) using scissors with short, sharp blades.  Be sure to snip along the slit at center of heart.  A pair of matching felt hearts are needed for each juggling heart.
TIP: Instead of cutting the second heart with another paper template, cut it using the first felt heart as a template.  This provides a more accurate match.  Mark the wrong side of both hearts in the pair.
Cut a total of 6 felt hearts—3 pairs of 2 matching hearts.
Cut Hearts from Felt Using Paper Pattern   @FanningSparksStep 3 Sew Heart Slit  Fold a felt heart vertically along the cut slit with right sides together.  Use a whipstitch/overcast stitch to sew the two sides of the slit together with tiny, tight stitches.  The sewn slit adds shape and dimension to the heart.  Repeat on the other five felt hearts.
Sew Center Slit in Felt Heart   @FanningSparksStep 4 Embroider Heart  Lay a piece of tissue or parchment paper over one of the heart design patterns.  Trace the outline of the heart as well as the inside design (X, O and heart).  Trim the outside edge of the tissue paper heart.  Align the tissue paper heart with a felt heart and pin in place.  Use an outline/stem stitch (or your stitch of choice) to embroider the design onto the felt heart with 2 strands of white embroidery floss.  If you’re new to embroidery or need a refresher, check out the More Info section at the end of the post.  Stitch through the tissue paper.  After stitching is completed, carefully tear away the tissue paper.  Repeat on the other five felt hearts embroidering 2 X’s, 2 O’s, and 2 hearts.
Steps to Embroider Felt Hearts Using Tissue Paper   @FanningSparksStep 5 Sew Hearts Together  Align a pair of matching hearts with WRONG sides together.  Pin.  Use a single strand of matching sewing thread.  (Note: I’m using white thread for visibility in the photo below.)  Use a whipstitch/ overcast stitch (or your stitch of choice) to sew the hearts together. Leave a small 1” opening along one of the long sides.  Take your time to firmly secure the hearts with small, strong even stitches, spaced close together, catching both edges in each stitch.  You don’t want the filling to come out when the juggling begins!
TIP:  I like to make my whipstitches about 2mm (⅛”) from the edge and about 2mm (⅛”) apart.  A small template, cut from thin cardboard, with a 2mm mark is helpful for checking along the way.  It’s quicker than using a ruler because you don’t waste time orienting yourself to the ruler scale and markings.
Sew Felt Hearts Together with Whip Stitch  @FanningSparksStep 6 Fill Heart  Working over a container or bowl, insert a small funnel into the unsewn opening in the heart.  Use a spoon to slowly scoop the millet into the funnel.  Carefully tamp down the millet so it runs into the heart.  Remove funnel.  Spoon small amounts of millet directly into the heart.  Use the spoon handle, or a thin stick such as a chopstick, to gently push the millet into all the sections of the heart.
Fill Felt Heart With Millet   @FanningSparksFill the heart as full as possible while ensuring you can still grasp the edges of the opening.  Pin the opening.  Sew the opening closed with a whipstitch/ overcast stitch.  Repeat on 2 remaining hearts.
Step 7 Finish Outside Edge  Use 2 strands of red embroidery floss and a blanket stitch (or your stitch of choice) to embroider around the outside edges of the heart.  Note: I used white floss for visibility in the photo below but it’s a pretty option.  This final round of stitching reinforces the seams and adds a nice, finished look.
Sew Blanket Stitch Around Outside Edge of Valentine’s Juggling Hearts   @FanningSparksStep 8 Cut Pouch Parts  Cut TWO 10” x 6 ½ “ rectangles from white felt.  Cut TWO 7 ½“ lengths of 1” red grosgrain ribbon.  Cut THREE small applique hearts from red felt using the method described above in Step 2.
Step 9 Embroider Pouch Front   The embroidery pattern for the pouch is available in the Valentines Juggling Hearts – Complimentary Download.  Print the pattern taking care to check the scale as explained in the download document.  Lay a piece of tissue or parchment paper over the pouch design pattern.  Trace the 9 design elements and the centering lines.  Align the tissue paper pattern with one of the felt pouch panels.  Position pattern with the horizontal center line 3½“ up from the bottom edge and the vertical center line at the middle of the panel.  Pin in place.  Use an outline/stem stitch (or your stitch of choice) to embroider the X’s and O’s onto the felt panel with 2 strands of red embroidery floss.  Stitch through the tissue paper.  Position a small felt heart on the panel according to the tissue paper pattern.  Pin in place while removing that section of tissue paper.  Use a blanket stitch (or your stitch of choice) to attach the small felt heart.
Embroider Front Panel for Valentine’s Drawstring Pouch   @FanningSparksRepeat for the remaining 2 small hearts.  After stitching is completed, carefully tear away the remaining tissue paper.  It’s best to press down on the embroidery stitches with the fingers of one hand while tearing the tissue paper with the other hand.
Step 10 Sew Pouch  The drawstring pouch opens at the top.  A casing, made by folding and stitching down the top edge of the felt panels, holds the drawstring cord.  Decorative grosgrain ribbon hides the casing.  Unlike the juggling hearts which are hand-stitched, the pouch is sewn by machine.
Parts for the Valentine’s Drawstring Pouch   @FanningSparksStart by making the casing.  Place front pouch panel on working surface with the wrong side facing up.  Fold down 1½“ from the top edge.  Press.  Unfold top edge.  Place front pouch panel on working surface with right side facing up.  Measure down ½” from pressed fold edge and align top edge of grosgrain ribbon with this line—top edge of ribbon is 2” from top edge of panel.  Pin ribbon in place.  Ends of ribbon should extend over side edges by ½“.  Fold ribbon ends to the back side of the panel.  Pin and stitch ribbon ends at the side edges of the front pouch panel. Repeat with back pouch panel.
Make Casing at Top of Valentine’s Drawstring Pouch   @FanningSparksPlace front pouch panel on working surface with the right side facing up.  Refold the top edge to the back at the pressed fold which is 1½” from top edge.  Ensure ribbon is placed straight and level at ½” from folded edge.  Pin ribbon in place.  Stitch across the panel along the top and bottom edges of the ribbon.  Repeat with back pouch panel.
Ribbon and Casing Sewn to Panels for Valentine’s Pouch  @FanningSparksPrepare to sew front and back pouch panels together.  Place back pouch panel on working surface with wrong side facing up.  Place front pouch panel on back panel with right side facing up.  The two panels should match and the ribbon ends should align.  Pin in place.  Stitch ¼” seam along the sides and bottom—beginning and ending at the bottom edge of the ribbon.
Use a safety pin or bodkin to pull the cord through the casing.  Knot the ends of the cord.  One cord will enter and exit on the right side of the pouch.  The other cord will enter and exit on the left side of the pouch.  Close the pouch by pulling the knotted cord ends in opposite directions. Open the pouch by pulling the panels apart.
Finished Pouch Laid Out with Valentine’s Juggling Hearts   @FanningSparksYour Valentine’s Juggling Hearts are ready to share with a fun-loving person in your life.  Happy Valentine’s Day!
Valentine’s Juggling Hearts Falling Out of Pouch   @FanningSparks

More Info

You can download the project template here: Valentines Juggling Hearts – Complimentary Download
Please pin this image to share or save for future reference.Valentine’s Juggling Hearts with Drawstring Pouch DIY Tutorial Pin   @FanningSparks

If you or the recipient of your Valentine’s Juggling Hearts would like to take juggling to the next level, watch for my next post where I’ll cover how to make and use juggling balls.
Gathered.How, publishers of Mollie Makes and other fine craft magazines, provides helpful instructions in their Library of Embroidery Stitches for Beginners.

Today’s Takeaways

1. Share a little love this Valentine’s Day with a small, handmade gift.
2. Juggling hearts are a novel way to mark Valentine’s Day.
3. Consider making Valentine’s Juggling Hearts for a special, fun-loving person in your life.
Peg - FanningSparks Author

The longer our wings are clipped, the more compelling virtual travel becomes.  One great online travel option is a website called WindowSwap (see More Info).  WindowSwap invites you to “open a new window somewhere in the world”.  With a simple click, you can enjoy the view through someone else’s window.  It may be a pleasing view of John’s balcony flower garden in Toronto Canada; Sisir’s view of a quiet residential street in The Hague, Netherlands complete with cyclists whizzing by; Shane’s sparkling view of modern skyscrapers in Dubai Marina, United Arab Emirates; a calming view of Sergey and Anna’s backyard in Moscow, Russia; or a city skyline with mountains in the background from Anna’s window in Sao Paulo, Brazil.  It may be sunny, raining or snowing.  It may be day, night, morning or evening.  There may be pets or wildlife such as deer and birds.
WindowSwap Website Main Page Screen Grab   @FanningSparks
The genius of WindowSwap is the surprise—you never know what you’ll see!  The views are randomly displayed—every time you click the button, a different recorded view pops up.  People from all over the world share 10-minute videos of their views.  It’s all voluntary.  The videos are honest and genuine—there are no fancy introductions, no overlays or splashy graphics, no hard sell and no self-promotion.  But be warned: WindowSwap is addictive!
WindowSwap brings to mind the views I’ve seen in my past travels.  We often seek out places to stay with nice views but it’s always a surprise.  Just like opening a new window in WindowSwap, you never know what you’ll see through the hotel room window!  Sometimes it’s just a swimming pool or neighboring buildings.  But other times, the view becomes a highlight of the stay.  I went back through my photo archives and pulled out a few of the more memorable hotel room views from our travels.
Some of the most memorable views have been of famous landmarks.  Once while staying in Paris, we had a terrific view of the Eiffel Tower.  The colorful evening sky and the brilliant crescent moon made this view unforgettable.
Eiffel Tower with Crescent Moon in Paris   @FanningSparksOur hotel was in the Montmartre district close to the beautiful Sacré-Coeur Basilica.
Sacré-Coeur Basilica in Paris   @FanningSparks
The views were beautiful in every direction—even the rooftops were lovely.
Paris Rooftops in Evening Sky   @FanningSparks
A stay in Barcelona was also marked with memorable views of a famous landmark.  My Airbnb apartment was located directly across the street from the Basílica of the Sagrada Família.
Basílica of the Sagrada Família in Barcelona   @FanningSparks
The close proximity brought the astonishing details of the Sagrada Família’s facade to life.
Stone Carved Lizard on Sagrada Família   @FanningSparks
The Sagrada Família was designed by Antoni Gaudí in 1882 and has been under construction ever since.  The main activity, at the time I visited, was on the tower of the Virgin Mary over the Temple apse.
Construction at Sagrada Família in Barcelona @FanningSparks
During a visit to Naples, we found a place to stay directly on the Neapolitan waterfront overlooking the Castel dell’Ovo.
View of Castel dell’Ovo in Naples Italy   @FanningSparks
We had a bird’s-eye view of all the action.  Here a couple of fishermen maneuver their rowboat around the castle walls.
Rowboat at Base of Castel dell’Ovo in Naples Italy   @FanningSparksDespite the cool wintertime temperatures, there were lots of people strolling along the Via Partenope enjoying Naples’ seaport.
Via Partenope in Naples Italy   @FanningSparksThere were many beautiful views on that trip to Italy.  We rented a car and drove along the magnificent Amalfi Coast.  We spent a couple of nights in the small, scenic town of Ravello which is designated as a UNESCO World Heritage Site.  The town was magical and the views were spectacular.  This was the view from our hotel room balcony.
Balcony Overlooking Amalfi Coast from Ravello Italy   @FanningSparks
The view was stunning throughout the day and night.  This is the Amalfi Coast at sunrise.
Sunrise on Amalfi Coast Viewed from Ravello Italy   @FanningSparks  Here’s the same view at night.
Nighttime View of Amalfi Coast from Ravello Italy   @FanningSparks
We visited the Lake Como area, in northern Italy, on a different trip.  This is Lake Como from our room in Bellagio, Italy.
View of Lake Como from Bellagio Italy   @FanningSparksView of Ferry on Lake Como from Bellagio Italy   @FanningSparks
There’s no doubt Italy is a beautiful country but it’s not the only place we visited with outstanding natural beauty.  This was the view from our room in Connemara, Ireland.
Window View at Cashel House Hotel in Connemara Ireland   @FanningSparks
Fifty acres of beautiful flower gardens and natural woodlands surround the country house hotel where we stayed.  Cashel Bay can be seen in the distance.
View from Cashel House Hotel in Connemara Ireland   @FanningSparks
Closer to home, we enjoyed a view of the magnificent Blue Ridge Mountains while staying in Blowing Rock, North Carolina.
Blue Ridge Mountains from Blowing Rock NC USA   @FanningSparks
Blue Ridge Mountains from Blowing Rock NC USA   @FanningSparksThat brings me full circle—back home to Georgia and our beautiful views of Lake Oconee.  Sunrise over the lake is always beautiful but some conditions, such as a drastic temperature change, saturate the color and heighten the drama.
Sunrise Over Lake Oconee GA USA   @FanningSparks
Watching the sky change from the dark, moody blue of first light to the golden tones of the morning sky never grows old.  I have captured this beautiful scene in numerous still photos but thought it would be fun to capture it on video as well.  Recently, the unpredictable temperatures of early January provided the perfect opportunity.  I’m excited to be able to share this video with WindowSwap viewers.
Sharing your own window view on WindowSwap couldn’t be simpler.  As instructed: “Record a 10 minute, horizontal HD video of your view with part of your window frame in the shot.”  Then use the “Submit Your Window” option to upload your video.  The WindowSwap folks will notify you when the video is posted.  Here’s how our view of the Lake Oconee sunrise looks in accordance with the WindowSwap instructions.
Framed View of Sunrise Over Lake Oconee  GA  USA   @FanningSparks
If all goes according to plan, my video of the Lake Oconee sunrise will be included in the WindowSwap random rotation and viewers around the world will be able to enjoy this magical view.

More Info

You can find WindowSwap at www.window-swap.com.  Why not give it a try?  WindowSwap is also on Instagram.  I appreciate that WindowSwap doesn’t run advertisements on their site because I can spend all my time enjoying the splendid views and not filtering through annoying ads.  WindowSwap does provide a means for viewers to support the project.  As they point out “…if you love window swap, please help us keep it alive.  Buy us a coffee for one time support.”
The following list, to borrow a phrase from the WindowSwap folks, is for my fellow “travel hungry fools”.  These are the hotels that afforded the beautiful views shared in this post:
Paris: Hotel Rochechouart Boulevard de Rochechouart, Paris (Note: This hotel seems to have undergone significant changes since we stayed there many years ago.)
Barcelona: Airbnb apartment— look for “Sagrada Familia! Elevator! Wi-Fi!” in Barcelona
Naples: Hotel Royal Continental Via Partenope, Naples, Italy
Ravello: Hotel Graal Via della Repubblica, Ravello, Italy
Bellagio: Hotel Metropole Bellagio, Bellagio, Province of Como, Italy
Connemara: Cashel House Hotel in Connemara, Co. Galway, Ireland
Blowing Rock: Chetola Resort in Blowing Rock, North Carolina, USA

Today’s Takeaways

1. Consider travelling virtually as an alternative to physical travel.
2. Online offerings, such as WindowSwap, provide a great way to explore the world.
3. Take a minute to appreciate the view out of your own window.
Peg - FanningSparks Author

After noodling it over, I decided to use my new Kindred Spirits fabric to make a tote bag.  I shared this fabric, designed by the talented Gaia Marfurt, in my last post The Perfect Reminder of Green Gables.  Now I can carry my memories of Prince Edward Island with me whenever I head to the store or take a road trip.
Kindred Spirits Design by Gaia Marfurt – Fabric and Tote Bag   @FanningSparks
I took my time to design this new tote bag—considering several options and trying some new ideas.  I learned a few things along the way that I’d like to share today.
Storage Needs
It might sound like overkill but I started by analyzing my needs.  After all, if I’m going to make my own tote bag, it might as well be tailored to my needs and preferences.  It was helpful to compare to other tote bags.  For instance, pictured below is my old go-to tote bag.  I purchased it in Singapore many years ago and have been using it ever since.
Fantasy Lady Tote Bag Hanging on Chair   @FanningSparks
There are several things I like about my old tote bag—the unusual design and color, the format and size, and the sturdiness.  But there are a few aspects that could be better.  This bag is 13” tall x 12 ½“ wide x 7” deep.  It holds everything I want to put in it including my laptop and camera.  But the generous size has become a problem because there’s no way to organize my stuff—everything gets jumbled up into one big mess.  There’s also no protection for my laptop and camera.
As a result, my new Kindred Spirits Tote Bag has lots of pockets and dividers.  It is 17” tall x 13” wide x 6 ½“ deep.  There are 4 small outside pockets to hold things I access frequently such as my phone and face mask.
Outside Pockets on Kindred Spirits Tote Bag   @FanningSparks
On the inside, there are 2 dividing panels to secure things like my laptop.  There are 2 small pockets on the inside of the front and back panels.  There’s a strap designed to hold a water bottle and a clip to hold keys or a small bottle of hand sanitizer.
Inside Pockets on Kindred Spirits Tote Bag   @FanningSparks
Sturdy Structure
Making a tote bag isn’t difficult.  There are several online tutorials available from excellent resources such as Spoonflower and Sew4Home (see More Info below).  Most simple tote bags, like the one pictured below, are made by stitching together 2 flat panels with box corners to create the bottom.
Simple Canvas Tote Bag in Garden Design   @FanningSparks
For the Kindred Spirits Tote Bag, I cut the sides and bottom as separate pieces to form a distinct box-like shape.  This design, along with some special products I’ll describe below, makes the tote bag sturdy enough to stand up independently.  It’s so much easier to store and remove items when the tote bag doesn’t collapse or flop over.
The handles are also sturdier than most and easy to grasp.  I like the versatility of carrying my bag down in my hand or up over my shoulder.  This means the handles have to be just the right length—long enough to slip over my shoulder comfortably but short enough to keep the bag off the ground when carried at my side.  In this case, that meant making the straps 20 ½” from one connection point to the other. Kindred Spirits Tote Bag Sitting On Chair   @FanningSparks
Materials Used
Knowing I wanted to feature Gaia Marfurt’s Kindred Spirits fabric on this tote bag, I ordered extra yardage.  The extra fabric allowed me to position the pattern with a full repeat at the center of both the front and back panels.
Centering Kindred Spirits Pattern for Front and Back Panels   @FanningSparks
The fabric, ordered from Spoonflower, is a lightweight cotton twill.  It is a good sturdy fabric but I decided to add some vinyl for increased durability.  The vinyl is dark brown and embossed with a pretty floral design.  The lining is made with a beige duck canvas fabric, a heavyweight woven 100% cotton utility fabric.  The handles are made with webbing covered with vinyl.
Materials Used for Kindred Spirits Tote Bag   @FanningSparks
Here’s a list of the pieces I cut for this project (½“ seam allowances are included):
Main Fabric – Kindred Spirits Cotton Twill:
. Body Front and Back: TWO 17” tall x 13” wide
. Inside Pockets: TWO 7” tall x 9” wide
Trim Fabric – Brown Embossed Vinyl:
. Outside Pockets: TWO 7” tall x 13” wide
. Sides: TWO 17” tall x 6½ ” deep
. Bottom: ONE 13” wide x 6½ ” deep
. Handles: FOUR 25” long x 1” wide
Lining Fabric – Beige Duck Canvas Fabric:
. Body Front and Back: TWO 17” tall x 13” wide
. Sides and Bottom: ONE 47” long x 6½” deep
. Divider Panels: FOUR 13” tall x 13½” wide
. Inside Pockets: TWO 7 tall x 9” wide
. Water Bottle Strap: 8½” long x 4” wide
Fusible Foam
. Body Front and Back: TWO 16” tall x 12” wide
Webbing – 1” Wide
. Handles: TWO 25” long
Plastic Canvas
. Bottom: ONE 13” wide by 6½” deep
Fusible Foam and Plastic Canvas
I’d never heard of fusible foam before making this project.  It’s very helpful for reinforcing fabric without making it stiff and hard.  The specific product I used is Flex-Foam 1-Sided Fusible Stabilizer from Pellon.  The foam is a mere 5mm thick and is available off the roll.  A hot iron is used to fuse the thin layer of foam to the fabric.  Of course, the fusible foam can’t be used on vinyl.  I tried a test and the heat of the iron definitely ruined the vinyl.
The fusible foam is pictured below.   It’s difficult to see the thickness so I rolled up a scrap piece to show it from the side.
Cutting Fusible Foam for Front and Back Panels   @FanningSparks
The foam is light but bulky so it’s best to keep it out of the seams.  Here are a couple of tricks I learned for working with fusible foam:
a) Cut the foam so it fits inside the seam allowance of the fabric to be fused.  For instance, my side panels are 17” x 13” including ½“ seam allowances.  I cut my foam 16” x 12” and centered it on the fabric.  I should have been a little more precise with this trimming because a sliver of foam ended up inside the seam around the top edge.  It wasn’t much but it made that seam bulkier than it needed to be.
b) After fusing the foam to the fabric, use scissors, cutting at an angle, to carefully trim off the top edges of the foam. This smooths out the transition between the flat fabric and the fused-foam fabric.
Trimming Edge of Fusible Foam   @FanningSparks
There is one downside to this fusible foam.  Using a hot iron and damp press cloth to fuse the foam to the fabric resulted in a nice, smooth finish.  But then I discovered the smooth finish can easily be compromised if you manipulate the fused fabric.  At least, that was my experience when turning my tote bag right side out.  Next time, I’ll take more care and handle the fused fabric gently.
The other product I learned about during the course of this project is plastic canvas.  Plastic canvas, which is a flat sheet of gridded mesh, has been around for some time.  It is often used with yarn to make small decorative items such as coasters and ornaments.  Turns out, it’s also great for adding structure to fabric.  I cut a piece to fit the bottom of the tote bag and inserted it between the lining and featured fabric.  The plastic canvas is light and, just like the fusible foam, it adds structure without making it too rigid.
Versatile Closure
Typically, I leave the top of my tote bag open.  There are times, however, when I’d like the option to close it securely.  I tried solving this concern on my old tote bag by sewing short strips of hook-and-loop tape (aka Velcro) to the top edges.  But that didn’t work because things caught on the hook tape.  So this time, I added hook-and-loop tape to the top edges and covered the tape with little flaps.  Here’s how it looks with the hook-and-loop tape closing the tote bag.
Velcro Closing on Kindred Spirits Tote Bag   @FanningSparks
Sewing the Top Edge
I started by making two sections: the main body and the lining.  These sections are joined, along the top edge, around the opening of the tote bag.  Originally, I planned to sew that seam using bias tape—in the same way as the vinyl straps and outside pockets (as shown below).
Embossed Vinyl Trimmed with Bias Tape   @FanningSparks
Unfortunately, my plan didn’t take the handles into account.  The handles were already sewn in place along the top edge of the lining.  I quickly discovered there was no way to get a smooth, professional finish with the handles interrupting the bias tape.  My plan to cover the top edge with bias tape was a fail!  So I had to get out my seam ripper and rework the plan.
After removing the stitching, I was back to two separate sections—the main body and the lining.  Plan B was to turn the two sections inside out before stitching them together.  I ripped out one of the seams along the bottom edge of the lining for turning.  The handles also had to be reworked.  I removed the handles and re-positioned then for this new approach.  It took a while to figure out the straps should be placed as shown below.
Lining Section with Handles Attached for Final Seam   @FanningSparks
Then I turned the main body and the lining sections inside out.  I tucked one inside the other and sewed them together along the top edge.  Finally, I turned it all right side out by pulling everything through the opening at the bottom of the lining.  Thankfully, this worked much better.
Here’s how my Kindred Spirits Tote Bag turned out.
Finished Kindred Spirits Tote Bag Hanging on Chair   @FanningSparks

More Info

Check out the FanningSparks’ post, The Perfect Reminder of Green Gables, to learn more about the Kindred Spirits design and designer Gaia Marfurt.
Spoonflower offers on-demand digital printing of fabric and wallpaper.  They’ve created an impressive, online, global marketplace to connect makers with artists worldwide.  You can find instructions for Spoonflower’s Perfect Everyday Tote Bag here.
The Sew4Home blog has a wealth of sewing projects and information.  See the Projects > Bags > Totes section for lots of inspiration.
You can learn more about Pellon’s Flex-Foam 1-Sided Fusible Stabilizer on their website.

Today’s Takeaways

1. Handmade items can be tailored to your specific needs and preferences.
2. Check out new products, or re-consider known products, for use on your next project.
3. Sometimes trial and error produces the best results!
Peg - FanningSparks Author

A recent Instagram post by Italian designer, Gaia Marfurt, caught my eye.  It was her new pattern design, called “Kindred Spirits”, featuring Lucy Maud Montgomery’s Anne of Green Gables.  Gaia is a talented freelance illustrator and pattern designer.  Her designs are elaborate, complex and beautiful—and packed with charming details.
Screen Grab of Gaia Marfurt Instagram Post   @FanningSparks
What a serendipitous discovery!  This sweet design struck a chord with me.  Not only does it honor one of my favorite fictional characters but it reminds me of a recent visit to Prince Edward Island.  Regular readers may recall that my husband is from “the Island” and we were in Eastern Canada to see close family members last fall.  While there, we had a chance to see a little of the Island.  It’s uncanny how many of the elements featured in Gaia’s design remind me of places I visited.
Take the lighthouse for instance.  Pictured below is the Rustico Harbour Lighthouse with a snippet from Gaia’s design.
Rustico Harbour Lighthouse with Gaia Marfurt Design Element   @FanningSparks
Other examples, shown below, are the fishing boats and the colorful fishing village of North Rustico.
North Rustico Fishing Village with Gaia Marfurt Design Element   @FanningSparks
A visit to the Island wouldn’t be complete without admiring her signature red sandstone cliffs.
North Rustico Beach Cliffs with Gaia Marfurt Design Element   @FanningSparks
At the heart of it all is Green Gables, a 19th century farmstead and literary landmark.  Notice the quote carved in the fence “It’s delightful when your imaginations come true, isn’t it?”  That is 100% Anne Shirley or, more accurately, 100% Lucy Maud Montgomery who created the legendary heroine.
Green Gables Homestead with Gaia Marfurt Design Element   @FanningSparks
As explained at the L.M. Montgomery Cavendish National Historic Site of Canada visitor center, “This farmstead… once belonged to Montgomery’s cousins, David and Margaret Macneill…  Montgomery never lived here, but she often visited throughout her life.  The farm inspired the fictional Green Gables and became a literary landmark.”
Barnyard and Carriage at Green Gables   @FanningSparks
The inside of the farmhouse is well worth a visit. It has been furnished to reflect how Green Gables was depicted in Montgomery’s novels.  Here are a few vignettes I captured.
Dining Room Scene at Green Gables   @FanningSparks

Dishes Stacked at Green Gables   @FanningSparks

Kitchen Scene at Green Gables   @FanningSparks

Wash Stand with Pitcher and Basin at Green Gables   @FanningSparks
The star attraction is Anne’s bedroom in the east gable.  In Montgomery’s story, Anne rushes to open the window on her first morning at Green Gables.  “Anne dropped on her knees and gazed out into the June morning, her eyes glistening with delight.  Oh, wasn’t it beautiful?  Wasn’t it a lovely place?  Suppose she wasn’t really going to stay here!  She would imagine she was.  There was scope for imagination here.
Bed in Anne’s Bedroom at Green Gables   @FanningSparks

Chair in Anne’s Bedroom at Green Gables   @FanningSparks
When Anne’s foster mother, Marilla joins her, Anne gushes over the view. “Oh isn’t it wonderful” … the garden and the orchard and the brook and the woods, the whole dear world.  Don’t you feel as if you just loved the world on a morning like this?  And I can hear the brook laughing all the way up here.  Have you ever noticed what cheerful things brooks are?  They’re always laughing.
The bridge pictured below crosses a “laughing brook” at the bottom of the slope below the east gable window.  The path leads to a pretty, spruce grove, that Anne dubbed the “Haunted Woods”.
Bridge Crossing to Haunted Woods at Green Gables   @FanningSparks
A visitor center exhibit explains: “No place of natural beauty inspired Montgomery more than the wooded path she named Lover’s Lane.  Montgomery discovered the tree-arched lane when she was 12 years old.  It became a sanctuary for her.  At every stage of her life, she walked the curving, red path to find solace and inspiration.  She took dozens of photographs of it over the years, more than of any other place, and she paid tribute to it in her poetry, non-fiction and fiction.  Montgomery immortalized Lover’s Lane in Anne of Green Gables as one of Anne Shirley’s most beloved places.”  Lover’s Lane, pictured below, is indeed a magical place.
Lover’s Lane Wooded Path at Green Gables   @FanningSparks
It’s heartening to know the places Montgomery described so lovingly have been preserved for all to enjoy.

More Info

To see more of Gaia Marfurt’s beautiful designs, check out her website or Instagram account.  Many of Gaia’s designs are available via her Spoonflower shop which is where I first came across her work.  I purchased a piece of fabric with the Kindred Spirits design and have been pondering how best to use it.  I plan to share the results soon.
Update Jan 26, 2021: After noodling it over, I decided to use my new Kindred Spirits fabric to make a tote bag.  See the results at Kindred Spirits Tote Bag.  Now I can carry my memories of Prince Edward Island with me whenever I head to the store or take a road trip!
For more FanningSparks’ stories and photos about Prince Edward Island, Canada, see Shutter Therapy in North Rustico and Beacons of Light.
For information about visiting Green Gables, see Parks Canada Green Gables Heritage Place or Tourism PEI All Things Anne.
For information about visiting Prince Edward Island, Canada, see the Tourism PEI website.

Today’s Takeaways

1. You never know when one of your favorite artists will create a design that strikes a chord with you.
2. Consider seeking inspiration from the locations and situations that inspired others.
3. Never doubt the joy of serendipity.
Peg - FanningSparks Author

Embellishing a printed photo with hand stitching can enhance the image with texture and depth.  Paper stitching and photo embroidery has been trending on blogs and Pinterest.  I’ve been on a roll lately embroidering messages on my own favorite shots.  It’s a fun way to add punch and impact.
My latest piece is a photo of a beautiful magnolia blossom.  I was inspired to embroider the words “Hello Marvelous” after coming across this quote by Aristotle “In all things of nature there is something of the marvelous.
Hello Marvelous Photo Embroidery – DIY Tutorial @FanningSparks
The photo is further enhanced with stitching along the flowing lines of the petals.
Hello Marvelous Closeup Photo Embroidery – DIY Tutorial   @FanningSparks
The possibilities for embroidering photos are endless.  Regular readers may recognize this technique from my previous holiday greetings and “word for the year” posts.  In the example below, I chose to embellish a stunning morning sunrise with the word “Savor” and 3 narrow columns of color-matched stripes.
Savor My Word for 2020 - Photo Embroidery   @FanningSparks
The columns started as carefully positioned vertical lines on a template.  After transferring the design to the photo, I stitched each stripe in embroidery floss to match the surrounding color.  Here’s a closer look.
Embroidered Photo of Sunrise with Floss. @FanningSparks
This next example shows a pretty photo of a camellia covered in snow.  The photo is embroidered with the words “Joyous Greetings” and further embellished with beading and lines of stitching.
Joyous Greetings 2019 - Photo Embroidery  @FanningSparks.
Small seed beads add a surprising amount of texture and interest.  I used clear seed beads to outline the flower petals and white seed beads to call attention to the edge of the snow.
Adding Seed Beads to Photo Embroidery – DIY Tutorial   @FanningSparks
The beacons of light emitting from the lighthouse, in the photo below, were embroidered with variegated pearl cotton thread.  The stitching adds depth and drama.
Beacons of Light Photo Embroidery – DIY Tutorial   @FanningSparks
While these examples have a similar style, there are as many different ways to apply this technique as there are artists.  Check out my Paper Stitching inspiration board on Pinterest for over 300 ideas.
Here’s another idea from a cool vintage post card that I scored at a flea market in Madrid, Spain.  The bullfighter’s costume has been completely covered with spectacular embroidery. The stitches are tiny and appear to be executed with single strands of thread.
Bullfighter Rafael Ortega – Embroidered Post Card   @FanningSparks
Whether you’d like to stitch a word or embellish a bullfighter’s costume, the following tutorial will walk you through the steps for embroidering a photo.
Hello Marvelous Embroidered Photo – DIY Tutorial
Very few supplies and tools are needed for a photo embroidery project.  Basic design and hand sewing skills are involved.  This project can be completed in a few hours but the actual working time will depend on the complexity of your design.  You may also need to factor in wait time for procuring a printed photo.
Supplies Needed
. Printed Photograph  8” x 10” photo on heavy matte paper.  See Step 1 for tips on selecting an image and Step 2 for tips on ordering a print.
. Thread  There are many options including Embroidery Floss and Pearl Cotton.  I chose DMC embroidery floss, in 3 different colors, for the stitching on the Hello Marvelous piece.  The stitches are done with only 2 (of the standard 6) strands.
. Accents (Optional)  Beads, sequins and other accents can be added.  I did not add accents on the Hello Marvelous piece.
. Cardstock  2-3 sheets in white.
. Printer Paper
. Cardboard Guide   A small strip (2 ½” x 2mm) of thin cardboard such as a manila folder.
. Piercing Mat  Make a padded mat from two layers of craft foam sheets.  Mine is ¼“ thick and measures 5 ½“ x 8“.
. Scotch Tape
Tools and Equipment Needed
. Photo Editing Software or App   Any software that allows you to import a photo and overlay text in different fonts and sizes will suffice.  I simply use Microsoft Powerpoint.
. Printer
. Marker/Pen  Fine tip marker or pen with colored ink.  I prefer red ink.
. Piercing Tool   Specialty tools are available for this purpose.  Search for “embroidery on paper tool”, “perforating tool” or “paper piercing”.  Alternatively, you could use a sharp-tipped needle for piercing the paper.
. Needle  Choose the slimmest needle that will hold your chosen thread.
. Scissors
. Soft Cloth  A piece of felt, or other soft cloth, slightly larger in size than the photo to lay on your working surface.
Step-by-Step Instructions
Step 1   Select Image   Choose the photo you wish to embellish.  I’ve found images with interesting, but simple, lines work best.  Ensure there is sufficient blank space to add any text.  You may wish to test a few ideas with your photo editing software or app.  Here’s a peek at my experimentation for the Hello Marvelous piece.  I started with the full quote but then realized it would be too small to embroider.  In the final design, the photo is 8” x 10” and the letters are about 1½“ high.
Experimenting with the Design - Hello Marvelous Photo Embroidery – DIY Tutorial   @FanningSparks
Step 2 Order Print(s)   This technique can be applied to any size print but I prefer 8”x10” enlargements.  I recommend having your selected image professionally printed on heavy matte paper.  I’ve had great results with SnapBox professional printing services (see More Info section below).  Their prints are high quality with sharp images and rich colors.  Their matte photo prints “feature a soft textured surface similar to traditional watercolor and etching paper”.  This thickness is ideal for stitching.  I’ve tried standard glossy prints from my local drugstore but found the paper tears and creases easily.  The heavier matte paper provides a better base for the stitching and results in a more polished and professional result.
Tip:  Keep an eye out for special prices on SnapBox.  I recently caught a 50% off sale that made my order very affordable.
Step 3 Create Design   Finalize the design for your piece.  As noted above, you can find over 300 ideas on my Paper Stitching inspiration board on Pinterest. Your design can be as simple or as complex as you like.  I chose to stitch the words “Hello Marvelous”, using Darleston text font in 138 point size, in an outline stitch.  I also emphasized some of the curved flower petals with an outline stitch.
Choose a font style for any lettering you wish to add. If this is your first photo embroidery project, I recommend choosing a large, simple font with few flourishes.  Another factor to consider is how the font will translate into stitching.  It’s difficult to vary the thickness of a stroke when stitching on paper so the letters will become a single thin line of stitching.  You’ll also need to determine the font size and overall placement on the photo.
Select embroidery stitches and threads for your design.  Pictured below are a few examples calling out the font, font size, embroidery stitch and threads used in each.
Examples of Fonts and Stitches for Photo Embroidery – DIY Tutorial   @FanningSparks
Design any additional lines or elements to be stitched.  Stitching that follows lines of the photo, such as the edges of the magnolia petals, do not need to be shown on your template.  But all elements you wish to add, such as the beacons on the lighthouse photo shown earlier, should be included.
Print your photo and design on cardstock paper.  Try different stitches.  Try different threads—varying the colors and the number of strands.  Refine your design accordingly.
After you’ve finalized the design, use your photo editing software or app to create the template.  Copy your design and then remove the photo.  Set the color of lettering and design elements to light grey.  You can see how my template looked at this stage in the photo shown in Step 1 above.
Print template on plain white printer paper.  It should match the size of the photo you will embroider.
Step 4 Prepare Template  The next step is to mark where the holes will be placed.  Use a fine tip marker or pen with colored ink—red works well.  Make a small dot for every hole following these steps:
… Mark dots at the ends of every line.
… Mark dots at all intersections where lines cross.
… For curved lines, mark dots at the apex (or mid-point) of every curve.  Do this on both concave curves (aka valleys) and convex curves (aka mountains).
Marking Dots for Hello Marvelous Photo Embroidery – DIY Tutorial   @FanningSparks
… Mark dots, evenly spaced, along all remaining lines. Space dots about 2mm apart.  I cut a 2 ½” strip of 2mm-wide thin cardboard to use as a guide.  Don’t mark dots too close together as the paper will tear when stitched.
Spacing Dots for Hello Marvelous Photo Embroidery – DIY Tutorial   @FanningSparks
Step 5 Pierce Photo   Prepare to pierce your printed photo.  Cover your working surface with a piece of soft cloth to protect the surface of your photo.
Lay your printed photo on the soft cloth. Carefully position the template over the photo ensuring the design is placed correctly.  Hold the photo and template in place by wrapping a few small pieces of tape over the edges.
Insert a piercing mat under the photo.  As noted earlier in the Supplies Needed section, you can make a piercing mat from two layers of craft foam sheets.  Mine is ¼“ thick and measures 5 ½“ x 8“.
Use a piercing tool, or sharp-tipped needle, to pierce the printed photo at every red dot.  Hold the piercing tool at a right angle to the surface of the paper.  Ensure the tip of the piercing tool is centered on the design line and positioned on the red dot.  Push through each dot firmly.
Piercing Tool on Template Hello Marvelous Photo Embroidery – DIY Tutorial   @FanningSparks
After piercing all the holes, carefully pick up the template and photo.  Hold up to the light to verify that all holes have been punched.
TIP:  Ensure your needle, threaded with the fiber you plan to use, will glide smoothly through the pierced holes.  If you have to force the threaded needle through or pulling it through makes the holes bigger, the holes are too small.  Correct this situation by pulling the threaded needle through all the holes before you start stitching.
Remove the template.
Carefully pierce any lines of the photo which you plan to stitch such as the edges of the flower petals on my Hello Marvelous piece.  Follow the same sequence as you did in Step 4 when preparing the template—start with the ends of lines, then pierce intersection points and curve apexes, and finish with evenly spaced holes on the remaining lines.
Step 6 Stitch Photo   Prepare to embroider the first line.  If using 6-strand embroidery floss, remember to pull out the desired number of strands.  I’ve found 2 strands works best for intricate designs.  Instead of knotting the end of your thread as you would when working with fabric, tape the end of the thread to the back of the photo with a small piece of scotch tape.  Do the same with all other thread ends.
As noted earlier, I chose to use an outline stitch (aka stem stitch) for the words and lines in the Hello Marvelous piece. Here are instructions for the stem stitch from the Gathered.How website (see More Info section below).
Come up from the back at point 1, then go down at point 2. Before pulling the stitch close to the fabric, come up at point 3 with the loose thread below the needle. Pull the thread taut, then repeat.”
Stem Stitch Instructions from Gathered.How Website   @FanningSparks
Here are a few additional pointers for working with printed photos:
… Be gentle.  It’s easy to rip the photo paper by pulling too hard.  When pulling the thread taut, gently pull it through the paper and snuggle it up to surface.
… As noted in the Gathered.How instructions, “Before pulling the stitch close to the fabric, come up at point 3 with the loose thread below the needle.”  Holding the loose thread BELOW the needle works great for straight lines and concave curves (aka valleys).  But for convex curves (aka mountains), I find it’s better to hold the loose thread ABOVE the needle before pulling the stitch close.
I think of the loose thread as a loop and remind myself to “hold the loop outside the curve”.  This helps keep the stitching line aligned with the design line.  It may be necessary to switch the loop from side to side within a single stretch especially on letters.
TIP – Hold Thread Loop Outside the Curve for Outline Stitch   @FanningSparks
… Check the stitching of each line when you reach the end.  If there any spots where the stitching doesn’t align with the design line (as shown on the left of the photo below), go back and correct by taking a small stitch over the stitching line.  This is often necessary at corners and sharp curves.  Find the hole at the center of the misalignment.  Bring the needle, from the back to the front, through the selected hole along one side of the stitched line.  Gently pull the thread to the front and snug to the paper.  Push the needle, from the front to the back, through the SAME hole on the other side of the stitched line.  Gently pull the thread to the back of the paper forcing the stitched line into alignment.
TIP – Refine Alignment with Small Stitches for Outline Stitch   @FanningSparks
… If you accidentally tear the paper between holes, remove the stitch and repair the rip with a small piece of tape on the back of the photo. Re-stitch pulling the needle through the tape.
Continue to embroider your printed photo until all the design lines have been stitched.  Tidy up any areas that need it.  Then step back and admire your embroidered photo!

More Info

Check out my Paper Stitching inspiration board on Pinterest for over 300 ideas.
SnapBox offers a suite of professional photo products.  Check out the SnapBox website.
Gathered.How, publishers of Mollie Makes and other fine craft magazines, provides instructions in their Library of Embroidery Stitches for Beginners.
Previous FanningSparks’ posts featuring embroidered photos include:
Season’s Greetings 2018
Harmony: My Word for 2019
Joyous Greetings 2019
Savor: My Word for 2020
Happy Holidays 2020
Hope: My Word for 2021

Today’s Takeaways

1. “In all things of nature there is something of the marvelous.”  Aristotle
2. Consider embroidering your favorite photos to add depth and texture.
3. Paper stitching and photo embroidery are growing in popularity.
Peg - FanningSparks Author