Peg

Deliberately Walking in Circles

Oops! I just missed World Labyrinth Day! Well—honestly—I didn’t even know there was a World Labyrinth Day. Every year on the first Saturday in May, people all around the world participate in World Labyrinth Day to celebrate the labyrinth as a symbol, tool, passion or practice. The event is a moving meditation for world peace. I may have missed this year’s event but I have been making an effort to find and walk labyrinths as much as possible. There really is something magical about slowly and carefully walking in circles around a labyrinth!
The dictionary defines a labyrinth as “a maze (as in a garden) formed by paths separated by high hedges”. Interestingly, most of the specialized sources I checked, start by clarifying that a labyrinth is not a maze. Both are intricate walking paths but their purposes differ significantly. A labyrinth is constructed with a single path, albeit with a complex winding route, which guides the walker from entry, to center to exit. Labyrinths are designed to calm the walker, to inspire peace and to encourage a walking meditation. A maze, on the other hand, has a complex branching route which the walker must navigate by choosing the correct path and direction. There are many dead ends forcing the walker to retrace their steps and re-evaluate their choices. Mazes are designed to confuse, amuse and entertain.
The first labyrinth I took notice of was in Hopelands Gardens in Aiken, South Carolina. At first glance, it looked like a large brick terrace.

The signage convinced me to give it a try. It read “Welcome to the Labyrinth at Hopelands Gardens. An ancient tool, the labyrinth is a metaphor for life’s journey. Pause at the entrance of the design then follow the path to the center. When you arrive at the center, linger and absorb all the labyrinth and the gardens have to offer. Retrace your path back to the entrance.”

“This labyrinth is patterned after a 13^th century design in Amiens Cathedral France.” The Cathedral Basilica of Our Lady of Amiens, or simply Amiens Cathedral, is a Roman Catholic church located north of Paris, France. Amiens Cathedral was built between 1220 and 1288. It is designated as a UNESCO World Heritage Site and considered a masterpiece of High Gothic architecture. The labyrinth is located in the center of the nave’s floor and built of white and black marble. According to Wikipedia, the labyrinth “symbolised the obstacles and twists and turns of the journey toward salvation, but also showed that with determination the journey was possible”.
As was typical of medieval labyrinths, the Amiens labyrinth is divided into four quadrants. It is octagonal in shape.

I made an effort to slow down and walk the labyrinth from beginning to end. It was an interesting experience: slowly following the many twists and turns of the labyrinth path is quite calming.

Brookgreen Gardens in Murrells Inlet, South Carolina also has a medieval style labyrinth. I shared my recent visit to Brookgreen Gardens in the blog post, Thank You Anna Hyatt Huntington, but I didn’t mention the labyrinth. “The labyrinth at Brookgreen Gardens combines the ancient cross-cultural aspects of the labyrinth bringing together the traditions of people who have occupied this land including the Native Americans, the enslaved Africans, and the Europeans.”

“The design is a seven circuit, medieval Chartres-style with a 76-foot diameter and measures 4/10 mile total in and out.” The Cathedral of Our Lady of Chartres, or simply Chartres Cathedral, is a Roman Catholic church located southwest of Paris. It was constructed in the same era and style as the Amiens Cathedral—but finished earlier around 1220. It is also designated as a UNESCO World Heritage Site and celebrated as “the high point of French Gothic art”. The Chartres labyrinth is also located in the center of the nave floor. Labyrinth experts refer to the design of the Chartres labyrinth as the “Eleven-Circuit Medieval Labyrinth”. The Chartres labyrinth is considered the most famous and credited with having influenced the popularity of labyrinths in 13th century France. The Chartres labyrinth is still highly regarded today—labyrinth enthusiasts travel to Chartres specifically to walk the labyrinth.
The Chartres labyrinth has a similar path arrangement to the Amiens labyrinth but it is circular, rather than octagonal, in shape.

The labyrinth at Brookgreen Gardens is situated beside a creek and surrounded by nature. It is an ideal place to slow down and walk a labyrinth.

I also had an opportunity to walk a labyrinth at the New Hanover County Arboretum in Wilmington, North Carolina. This labyrinth is constructed of contrasting pavers laid out in a “five-circuit medieval design.”

The New Hanover County Arboretum labyrinth is a focal point in “the Military Memorial Contemplation Garden … [which] was installed ‘to create a unique space of solitude and reflection honoring those who have chosen service above self’. … The garden was dedicated in honor of Durwood Baggett an Army veteran awarded the Bronze Star and former county extension agent.”

Surrounded by a floral landscape, the labyrinth is indeed a lovely space for solitude and reflection.

The final labyrinth I’d like to share is located in the Children’s Garden at the Atlanta Botanical Garden in Gainesville, Georgia.

It’s a little unusual because the walker walks on the stones instead of following the path between the stones. It’s probably perfect for the intended audience… children, I imagine, would enjoy the challenge of following that squiggly line.

Labyrinths are ancient symbols used by cultures all around the world. The patterns have been found on pottery, tablets and tiles that date as far back as 5000 years. A labyrinth pattern, called the Classical 7-Circuit, is based on a pattern discovered on a clay tablet from Pylos, Greece (circa 1200 BCE) and on Cretan coins (400-500 BCE). To this day, it is reported to be the most popular and most accessible labyrinth pattern. I haven’t come across a Classical 7-Circuit labyrinth yet but I’m watching for one…perhaps I’ll find it before the next World Labyrinth Day!

More Info

The Labyrinth Society “is an international group of labyrinth enthusiasts whose mission is to support all those who create, maintain, and use labyrinths, and to serve the global community by providing education, networking, and opportunities to experience transformation.” The Society sponsors the World-Wide Labyrinth Locator which is an online directory of labyrinths.
To learn more about the labyrinth locations mentioned in this blog post, check out the websites listed below:
. Brookgreen Gardens in Murrells Inlet, South Carolina, USA. You can learn more about this award-winning botanical garden and its outstanding sculpture collection in my previous blog post Thank You Anna Hyatt Huntington.
. Hopelands Gardens in Aiken, South Carolina, USA
. Atlanta Botanical Garden in Gainesville, Georgia, USA
. New Hanover County Arboretum in Wilmington, North Carolina, USA
For information about World Labyrinth Day, held annually on the first Saturday of May, check out their website.

Today’s Takeaways

1. Explore the fascinating history of labyrinths.
2. Seek out a labyrinth near you.
3. Consider walking a labyrinth to help quiet the mind and ground the body.

How Tos Make Other Media Repurpose

From Tulip Paper to Natural Fiber Papermaking

“The cover of this park map is made of tulip paper and consists of 20% tulips.” This statement, on the Keukenhof spring flower garden park map, piqued my interest. Tulip paper? You can make paper from tulips?
Turns out this was the same question the Dutch specialty printing firm, JEA, asked themselves when they took on the challenge in early 2019. According to their website, every year JEA runs a special sustainability project. Working with the Kuekenhof (see my previous post Come Tiptoe Through the Tulips), JEA aimed to recycle over 10 tons of tulip waste. The project was successful and Keukenhof’s 2020 maps featured the newly-created tulip paper. According to their Instagram announcement, JEA used over 250,000 faded tulips from Keukenhof’s 2019 season to make the paper.

Unfortunately, the Keukenhof was unable to open in 2020 and 2021 due to the global pandemic. So, the tulip paper maps didn’t debut until this year—the same year I visited!
Around this same time, I became aware of a papermaking workshop at the Robert C Williams Museum of Papermaking in Atlanta, Georgia. The workshop, Papermaking from Natural Fibers, was led by Robert Thompson, an Atlanta paper artist and owner of Lot 10 Paper. Robert is well versed in the use of natural fibers to make paper. His Instagram feed is packed with the natural materials he harvests and scrounges from local farms and the beautiful paper art he creates from them.
Our workshop started with an opportunity to view and admire some of Robert’s work. Interestingly, Robert attended the same Natural Dyes workshop, led by Doug Baulos and Jacob Phillips, I did a few years ago (see Natural Dye Making). Many of Robert’s works include eco-printing and natural dyes.

Paper making is an ancient art. “The earliest known paper has been traced back to 200 BCE in China. Archaeologists found a paper prayer embedded into the adobe brick of a home, presumably a blessing. In 105 CE, Ts’ai Lun, who worked for the Chinese emperor, announced and recorded the process of papermaking. … The first papers were made from recycled fishing nets, bamboo, mulberry bark, or hemp.” reports the Museum of Papermaking website.
The basic process to make paper remains the same from those early days. Simply put, the paper maker begins by breaking down cellulose fiber (cloth rag, plants, or scrap paper) and mixing it with water. Then the pulp is formed into a flat sheet, pressed flat and allowed to dry.
To make beautiful paper, like Robert’s samples or some of those from my own paper stash, requires knowledge and skill. Here are a few handmade papers I’ve collected over the years. I can’t recall where I found all of them but several were purchased in Chiang Mai, Thailand.

Meanwhile back at the workshop, Robert showed us how to prepare wheat straw for paper making. He typically starts with a base, like wheat straw, before adding other cellulose fibers for interest, texture and transparency. Shown below is a pot of chopped wheat straw in water and lye.

After a few hours of simmering, the wheat straw was ready to neutralize with vinegar, rinse and drain.

Robert prepared wheat straw in advance so we could get started right away.

Each participant was set up with a vat of wheat straw pulp, a mould and deckle, sponge and section of felt. The mould and deckle were ingeniously created from a set of inexpensive stretched canvases. The mould, the bottom frame with a screen attached to its back, sits face down with the screen facing up. The deckle, the top frame without any covering, sits face up aligned with the mould.

Robert showed us how to pull paper. The mould and deckle are held together and submerged into the vat of water and pulp. Then carefully lifted up through the slurry leaving a thin layer of pulp on the screen. Still holding the mould and deckle together, the water is drained. Next the deckle is removed, the mould is flipped over and the newly formed sheet of paper is carefully transferred onto a flat layer of cotton and felt. This last step is called couching.

In addition to the wheat straw, Robert provided a variety of natural fibers including bamboo leaves, banana leaves, corn husks, garlic leaves, maple leaves, and pine bark. Tulip leaves and faded tulip blooms would have fit right in! We were able to experiment with the different fibers individually and in combination. Here are a few of my finished papers.

I’ve always liked handmade paper featuring botanicals. Here are a few examples from my own paper stash.

I was eager to try this technique for myself so I brought a few natural elements I’d previously pressed in my Fern & Flower Press (see Fern & Flower Press – DIY Tutorial). There were pressed maple leaves, hydrangea flowers and cosmos petals as well as some zinnia and coneflower seeds. The below photos show my attempt to embed a few maple leaves.

My most ambitious piece included an arrangement of pressed cosmos petals and hydrangea blooms sprinkled with coneflower seeds. I was really pleased with the piece at this point.

Unfortunately, after I added a second sheet of wet paper and let it all dry, my carefully arranged masterpiece had pretty much disappeared! Apparently, that second sheet was too thick. Regardless, the embedded seeds are still viable so I embroidered a little message on my sheet of handmade paper. You can learn more about paper stitching, including step-by-step instructions for embroidering a printed photograph, in my previous post Hello Marvelous Photo Embroidery – DIY Tutorial.

Based on the research I did after the fact, it would have been better not to add a second sheet of pulp. One expert says it’s all about timing—she says botanicals will become embedded within the fibers of the sheet if you lay them on the surface of the pulp directly after pulling the mould and deckle out of the vat before the water begins to drain away. Another expert recommends quickly presoaking the botanicals and carefully dribbling some pulp around and over the flowers (with a turkey baster) after placement on the sheet. And yet another expert, recommends using a pouring method (instead of dipping) with a deckle box. All good options to try next time!
Another option to try next time is to dye the handmade paper. I had great success dyeing various materials, including handmade paper, with Rit All-Purpose Dyes last year (see previous post Experimenting with Fabric Dye). The trick is to work quickly—dipping the paper into the dyebath and immediately pulling it out. The below photo shows the results of that project—the white sections are the original, undyed paper.

I really enjoyed the Papermaking from Natural Fibers workshop with Robert Thompson (Many thanks Robert!) and the folks at the Robert C Williams Museum of Papermaking (Thank you Virginia and Anna!). It was great fun to take that little spark of inspiration from the tulip paper to a full day of experimentation and creativity.

More Info

The Robert C. Williams Museum of Papermaking, part of Georgia Tech in Atlanta, Georgia, USA, has a “mission to collect, preserve, increase, and disseminate knowledge about papermaking – past, present and future. The Paper Museum cares for the most comprehensive collection of paper and paper-related artifacts in the world, comprised of over 100,000 artifacts including manuscripts, rare books, prints, hand and industrial papermaking tools and equipment, and crafted and manufactured objects, as well as paper samples. … The Paper Museum also offers a variety of programs for audiences ranging from lectures for the general public to field trips for schools to hands-on workshops for all ages.” Workshops and exhibits are posted on the Paper Museum website.
You can learn more about Robert Thompson, Lot 10 Paper and his beautiful paper art on the Lot 10 Paper website or Instagram account.
Several FanningSparks’ blog posts are mentioned in this post including:
. Come Tiptoe Through the Tulips which is packed with all things tulip including a visit to Noorwijkerhout in the midst of the Netherlands’ Bulb Region, the world-famous spring gardens at Keukenhof, and tulip-related highlights from the Rijksmuseum in Amsterdam.
. Natural Dye Making about my experience attending a Natural Dyes workshop, led by Doug Baulos and Jacob Phillips, at the Robert C. Williams Museum of Papermaking. in Atlanta.
. Fern & Flower Press – DIY Tutorial in which I share step-by-step instructions to make a generously-sized press for large plant elements. You can also use this press to dry and flatten handmade paper.
. Hello Marvelous Photo Embroidery – DIY Tutorial in which I share examples of paper stitching and provide step-by-step instructions for embroidering a printed photograph.
. Experimenting with Fabric Dye about my experience dyeing a variety of materials, including fabric, felt, yarn, string, wood beads and handmade paper, with Rit All-Purpose Dyes.

Today’s Takeaways

1. Be on the lookout for new and different ways to recycle.
2. Making paper by hand opens a world of creative possibilities.
3. Beautiful papers can be made from natural fibers.

Artists Europe Make Netherlands Travel

Artworks as Big as Walls in Amsterdam

A great tip from a friendly local led us to explore the lesser-known area of Amsterdam-Noord during our recent visit to this vibrant Dutch city. We’d already explored several of the popular sights and marveled at the charming canals, bridges and gabled canal houses of the historic Jordaan district.
This is Prinsengracht (Prince’s Canal) with the Westertoren (West Tower) in the background.

The iconic Westertoren, topped with the beautiful imperial crown, soars above the Jordaan district.

There are about 2,500 houseboats moored along the canal banks in Amsterdam.

Many of Amsterdam’s canal houses, with their ornate gabled façades, date back to the Dutch Golden Age.

Back in the 16^th century homeowners were taxed based on the width of their houses. As a result, houses were narrow and deep with very steep stairs. The ladder-like stairs shown in the photo below are a case in point.

As lovely as this part of the city is, we were ready to get off the beaten path and escape the crowds. It was surprisingly easy to get to the quiet residential area of Amsterdam-Noord (North Amsterdam); we simply hopped a free ferry at the Amsterdam Central Station. Then we wandered around the quiet neighborhoods and through the refreshing, green parks. Eventually we made our way to the NDSM Wharf—Amsterdam’s edgy arts community.

There’s a fascinating story behind this area. NDSM which stands for ‘Nederlandse Dok en Scheepsbouw Maatschappij’ (Netherlands Dry Dock and Shipbuilding Company) was founded in 1894. The company prospered for nearly 100 years building and repairing ships. But the shipbuilding industry declined and NDSM went bankrupt in 1984 closing the 90-hectare (about 222-acre) facility of docks and shipyards. It sat empty until squatters, artists and skaters started to adopt the space. In 1999, an urban regeneration process was initiated. The squatters got organized and argued that NDSM should be considered an incubator. The movement was successful and in the 2000s the neglected shipyard became popular as a cultural incubator zone. Forward-thinking corporations, such as MTV, Red Bull and HEMA, set up offices. More artists and creatives were drawn to the area. Today, some call it Amsterdam’s biggest outdoor playground for graffiti and street artists.
The huge artwork shown in the photo below is aptly named Container Arch. It is constructed of actual shipping containers and a great example of NDSM’s chaotic, post-industrial vibe.

NDSM’s raw edginess is appreciated by artists and visitors alike. Luca Boscardin, a toy designer and illustrator with a studio at NDSM, shared this perspective: “I think NDSM is a perfect place for this kind of project. Here, luckily, there is still a bit of beautiful chaos, and mess. There is room to improvise and to be surprised. … It’s a beautiful place filled with energy and creativity where a lot of great ideas start.”
Arguably, the biggest NDSM draw for visitors is STRAAT: the museum for graffiti and street art. STRAAT is located in a huge, 8000 m2 (nearly 2 acres) former warehouse. The ample space presents 150+ artworks as big as walls. The tiny person walking through the exhibit, in the below photo, illustrates the sheer size of this place.

Here’s another photo to help communicate the scale of the artworks. That’s Marian, my sister and traveling companion, taking a photo of the artwork Wild by Treze (Spain, 1986 – 2018).

The exhibit card explains “Showcasing his characteristic pastel shades, this piece is one of Treze’s many odes to the inherent beauty in nature, aiming to glorify the miracle of life. ‘The girl represents nature observing something ‘artificial’, like the [graffiti] style. The style is something associated with the metropolis, the concrete jungle and its industry.’ Treze”

Here’s another one of my favorites—this is Reunion by Zësar Bahamonte (Spain, 1986). Like most of the STRAAT artworks, it is done in spray paint on polyester.

The exhibit card reads “Although Zësar has painted many musicians throughout his career, this was the first time he painted flamenco musicians from his hometown, Seville. Instead of turning to the traditional imagery of flamenco, he represented the artists in his own personal way: fresh and original, yet deeply rooted into the cultural heritage of his country.”

The below artwork is Untitled by Dan Kitchener (UK, 1974). “Dan Kitchener’s iconic wet streets, overcrowded with neon signs, are based on his own photographs. ‘I went out into Tokyo at 2 am in the pouring rain, and it was just the best thing ever. I was laying in the streets, taking all these shots, finding angles… So that’s a shot I took walking from the station to Shinjuku, and I remember that vividly; it’s quite an important image for me.’ Kitchener.”

There are a number of factors that make the STRAAT Museum stand out. The museum website explains: “In our current exhibition, we showcase more than 150 artworks by 130+ artists. But our ever-growing collection features even more works. We are committed to building a collection that properly represents the international street art movement. We aim to attract artists who have earned their rep within the street scene with their personal stories, background, style and talent. A unique quality of our collection is the fact that virtually all artworks were created for and at our museum; the artworks at STRAAT are created in the same place the viewer gets to see them – just like in the streets.”
We did, indeed, get to see artists at work. This is Gary Stranger (UK) working on COME CLOSE. The bottom right photo, grabbed from the STRAAT online collection, shows the final result. This description is provided: “COME CLOSE was painted with the idea of the words folding into a lemniscate, suggesting the idea of an infinite embrace. The two halves of the artwork are intended to mimic arms interlocking. Gary Stranger studied arts and typography, but entered the art world through graffiti. … ‘Over the last decade I have been refining my work away from the traditional graffiti aesthetic. I aim to explore the manipulation of letter form, taking type beyond its intended, primary use.’ Gary Stranger”.

I’d never given much thought to the difference between graffiti and street art. The STRAAT Museum defines graffiti as “Name writing in public space. Graffiti writers deconstruct the alphabet and create it a new through the styled letters of their personal tag.” Street art, on the other hand, is defined as “art in public space that has the street as its main source of inspiration. It comes in all shapes and sizes, is ephemeral in nature and is usually produced with the aim of engaging a wide audience through easily intelligible messages.”
Shown below is Electra by Alice Pasquini (Italy, 1980). “Alice began painting in the streets in 1999, pioneering Rome’s independent art scene. Taking an intimate approach, Alice tells stories through her personal point of view on the world and on the relationships between human beings. Electra is a tribute to feminine vitality, one of the key themes in Alice’s works.” states the exhibit card.

The STRAAT collection showcases five themes including aesthetical, personal, grounded, conscious, and empathic. The conscious theme addresses “Artists’ Outlook on Contemporary Society” and is described as: “Besides being inspired by the physical environment, street art is also influenced by what surrounds it at large: our society. According to author Cedar Lewisohn, ‘when art is placed in the street without the input of a sanctioning body, everything around the image becomes important: the social context and the political context.’ Moreover, when placed in the streets, art reaches a broader audience … In recent years, this visibility has grown exponentially through street art photos going viral on social media. … [the artists] use visibility of their artworks in the streets and at STRAAT to plant seeds in people’s heads and hearts.”
Shown below is Lack of sense of emergency by Alaniz (Argentina, 1984). “Lack of sense of emergency is based on a photo of a Syrian child taken by David Gross. … Alaniz emphasizes how our distracted society fails to recognize the sense of emergency of such situations. ‘I paint about what moves me, and, as a migrant myself, I feel moved by the refugee crisis. I grew up in the ghettos of Buenos Aires and the social injustices that I experienced formed my social interest.’ Alaniz”.

I’ll wrap up with one more favorite—Universo em expansão (Expanding Universe) by Mateus Bailon (Brazil, 1984). The exhibit card states: “Deeply inspired by the natural wonders of his hometown in Brazil, as well as mythology and the mysteries of life, Mateus envisions his own magical creatures. In Universo em expansão, the artist depicts his iconic birds carrying a portal to his own universe. The viewer is free to imagine what could be in there.”

More Info

My recent trip to the Netherlands and Belgium was packed with fun and inspiration. I’m sharing the experience in a series of blog posts including:
. Come Tiptoe Through the Tulips which is packed with all things tulip including a visit to Noorwijkerhout in the midst of the Bulb Region, the world-famous spring gardens at Keukenhof, and tulip-related highlights from the Rijksmuseum in Amsterdam.
. Milling the Water of Kinderdijk in which I share my visits—an afternoon bike ride and a sunrise hike—to the beautiful windmills of the Kinderdijk.
. Painting Delftware in Delft about the charming city of Delft and our experience trying a centuries-old painting tradition at the historic Royal Delft factory.
. Expected and Unexpected Delights of Ghent in which I share the rich heritage and beautiful architecture of Ghent Belgium as well as unexpected delights such as innovative art installations and sweet wildlife sightings.
. Artworks as Big as Walls in Amsterdam (this post).
You can find information about visiting Amsterdam, the world-famous 17th century capital of Holland, on the official website for the Netherlands.
Information about NDSM, Amsterdam’s edgy arts community, can be found on the NDSM website.
See the STRAAT Museum website for information about Amsterdam’s graffiti and street art museum. This museum was voted Best Hidden Gem and Best Museum in the Netherlands by the Tickets Remarkable Venue Awards in 2021. The STRAAT Museum’s artworks can also be viewed in their online collection database.

Today’s Takeaways

1. Locals are often the best source for hidden gems at your travel destination.
2. Consider wandering off the beaten path for a more authentic experience.
3. Street artists “use visibility of their artworks in the streets… to plant seeds in people’s heads and hearts.”

Europe Nature Travel Wildlife

Expected and Unexpected Delights of Ghent

Every travel adventure starts with expectations. Spending a long weekend in Ghent Belgium was no exception. I expected to experience a historic city center with a rich heritage, beautiful architecture and delicious chocolate—and I did! I didn’t expect to discover innovative art installations, comical audio tours and sweet wildlife sightings—but I did!
Located in the province of East Flanders, Ghent is the third largest city in Belgium. But in the Late Middle Ages (AD 1250-1500), this Flemish city was the largest and richest in northern Europe. Its wealth was derived from trading and textiles.
Evidence of those prosperous times is still visible today especially around the site of the city’s medieval harbor. Two marvelously-preserved quays—the Graslei (Grass Quay) and the Korenlei (Corn Quay)—flank the Leie River. It is understandably one of the most photographed sights in the city.

Medieval Ghent was dependent on tradesmen such as boatmen and grain weighers. Powerful associations, called guilds, were formed to manage and oversee the practice of each trade and craft. The guilds built elaborate, ornate buildings to demonstrate their status, conduct their business and house their officers. Here’s a closer look at the splendid façades of a few of those historic buildings. The Renaissance building (below center) was originally the guild house for stonemasons. It is known as Den Enghel (The Angel) for the beautifully carved stone angel on the façade. The building on the right is the Eerste Korenmetershuis (First Corn Measurer’s House) where city officials once weighed and graded corn.

The architectural treasures of Korenlei, along the opposite side of the river, are equally charming especially when reflected in the still waters of early morning.

The area is especially beautiful at night when the buildings are illuminated and the sparkling lights are reflected in the river’s dark waters.

This beautiful stone arch bridge crossing the Leie River is the famous St Michael’s Bridge.
“The neo-Gothic St Michael’s Bridge offers fine views back over the towers and turrets that pierce the Ghent skyline – just as it was meant to: the bridge was built to provide visitors to the Great Exhibition [in 1913] with a vantage point from which to admire the city center.” says Phil Lee in his book Rough Guide Directions Bruges and Ghent. The below photo was taken from St Michael’s Bridge and shows the Former Post Office (on left) and St Nicholas’ Church (center).
Atop a lamppost at the center of the bridge, is a striking bronze sculpture of Saint Michael defeating a dragon.

The Ghent Belfry is another well-known landmark. It is one of 33 belfries in Belgium which have been designated as UNESCO World Heritage Sites. “High towers built in the heart of urban areas, often dominating the principal square, the belfries are essential elements in the organization and representation of the towns to which they belong. … A practical building housing the communal bells, conserving charters and treasures, where city council meetings were held, serving as a watch tower and a prison, the belfry has, over the centuries, become the symbol of power and prosperity of the communes.” says the UNESCO website.

We climbed the 366 steps to the top of the belfry tower for stunning views of the city. Pictured below is the east end of St Nicholas’ Church.

For a different view of Ghent, we participated in a Chocolate Tour of the city. Most chocolate lovers would be aware of Belgium’s excellent reputation for chocolate making. There are, in fact, more than 320 chocolateries in Belgium ranging from world-famous chocolate brands such as Godiva, Leonidas and Neuhaus to local chocolate artisans. I was surprised to learn it all began in Ghent with the buying and selling of chocolate in the 17^th century. Our tour included tastings at several chocolatiers and sweet shops. Pictured below are a violin sculpted from chocolate by Vandenbouhede; Ghentse Neuzen (noses), cone-shaped candies filled with raspberry-flavored jelly which are unique to Ghent; Suikerharten (sugar hearts) from Temmerman; and enticing pralines from Leonidas.

As mentioned at the top of this blog post, we discovered a number of unexpected delights in Ghent. One of those was the flashing streetlights in Sint-Veerleplein square. “In partnership with the Ghent City Council, artist Alberto Garutti conceived of and integrated his work of art entitled Ai Nati Oggi (“For Those Born Today”) directly into the infrastructure of the city. Every time a baby is born in one of Ghent’s maternity wards, the parents are given the option to push a button connected to these street lamps, which in turn causes them to flash. … The surge of light provides a beautiful way of sharing the new parents’ joy with the entire town, a quiet testament to the birth that is seen by everyone filling the popular square and pubs nearby. The lights symbolize hope for the future generation, while also changing the future history of the square the streetlights line, as it had been used for executions throughout the Middle Ages.” reports the Atlas Obscura website. Our chocolate tour guide told us the flashing of the lights is met with great enthusiasm and everyone cheers and claps to welcome the newest citizen to Ghent. What a concept!

The flashing streetlights are located in front of Gravensteen Castle aka the Castle of the Counts.

This imposing stone castle was once a prison known for torturous practices. But there’s so much more to the story of this medieval fortress. And there’s no better way to hear that story than to take the Gravensteen Castle audio tour. The tour is conducted by Wouter Deprez a well-known Flemish comedian. It is, by far, the funniest and most entertaining audio tour I’ve ever heard. As Deprez puts it: “Witchcraft, tournaments, adultery, and hefty religious unrest: the Castle of the Counts brings together all my hobbies. It’s a hugely interesting adventure for me to show the way in this fantastic fortress.”

The audio tour is complemented by a series of humorous banners throughout the castle by illustrator Randall Casaer.

I discovered another delightful surprise while exploring the streets of Ghent—the below art installation called The Birds of Mr Maeterlinck. This artwork was created by David Lesort and Arnaud Giroud of Pitaya design studio. It features a flock of origami-styled, white, metal birds nestled in a tree.

At night, it becomes a striking swarm of blue birds soaring above the water of the canal. The artwork was inspired by the 1908 fairy tale play “L’Oiseau Bleu” (The Blue Bird), written by Belgian playwright and poet Maurice Maeterlink, about two children searching for the blue bird of happiness.

The final unexpected delight I’d like to share in this blog post comes from the Ghent University Botanical Garden. The gardens are lovely with a huge selection of well-maintained plant species from all over the world. We spent several pleasant hours there but, to be honest, I spent most of my time crouched beside a small pond admiring a family of ducks. The birds, Eurasian Coots (Fulica atra), are common in Europe but do not occur in North America. They seemed quite comfortable around people and I was able to get several great shots while the parents fed their babies.

This next shot was my favorite—I love the sweet sentiment of the parent duck caring for the duckling. This was definitely not something I expected to witness in the Belgian city of Ghent!

More Info

My recent trip to the Netherlands and Belgium was packed with fun and inspiration. I’m sharing the experience in a series of blog posts including:
. Come Tiptoe Through the Tulips which is packed with all things tulip including a visit to Noorwijkerhout in the midst of the Bulb Region, the world-famous spring gardens at Keukenhof, and tulip-related highlights from the Rijksmuseum in Amsterdam.
. Milling the Water of Kinderdijk in which I share my visits—an afternoon bike ride and a sunrise hike—to the beautiful windmills of the Kinderdijk.
. Painting Delftware in Delft about the charming city of Delft and our experience trying a centuries-old painting tradition at the historic Royal Delft factory.
. Expected and Unexpected Delights of Ghent (this post).
. Artworks as Big as Walls in Amsterdam sharing our experience visiting STRAAT, the graffiti and street art museum, in Amsterdam’s edgy arts community at NDSM.
For information about visiting Ghent Belgium, check out the Visit Gent website.
See the World Heritage Convention United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organization (UNESCO) website for more information about this organization or to reference the UNESCO listing for the Belfries of Belgium and France.
Check out the Atlas Obscura website for curious and wondrous attractions at your next destination.
See the Historische Huizen Gent (Historic Houses Ghent) website for information about the Castle of the Counts/ Gravensteen Castle.
See the Visit Gent website for more information about the Ghent University Botanical Garden.

Today’s Takeaways

1. Every travel adventure starts with expectations.
2. Research your destination to ensure expectations are realistic.
3. Be on the look out for unexpected delights.

Clay Europe Make Netherlands Travel

Painting Delftware in Delft

The Dutch city of Delft is synonymous with the classic blue and white pottery known as Delftware (aka Delft Blue or Delft pottery). Located in the province of South Holland in the Netherlands, Delft is a charming historic city complete with handsome stone buildings, beautiful old churches, delightful narrow canals, and intriguing hidden alleyways.
This is the Oostpoort (East Gate), Delft’s only surviving city gate, at sunset.

These are the steeples of the Oude Kerk (Old Church) which dates back to 1246.

The Nieuwe Kerk (New Church) is the final resting place for the members of the Dutch Royal House. The most famous grave is that of William of Orange (more about him later).

The arched bridges, white wrought iron rails, cobblestone streets and quiet canals of Delft are quite picturesque…

…especially with the beautiful spring blossoms.

This charming alley was spotted in the historic city center.

Delft was an important city in the 16^th century. William of Orange, “Father of the Nation” and ancestor of the monarchy of the Netherlands, established himself in Delft after defeating Spanish invaders. He is credited with founding “the Netherlands as a parliamentary state based on the principles of freedom of religion and freedom of expression” in 1581. After this, Delft became the de facto capital as the seat of the Prince of Orange. Artisans and craftspeople settled in the city bringing their skills and expertise in printing, beer brewing, tapestry weaving and earthernware making. In 1602, The Dutch East India Company opened an office in Delft and the city was poised for success.
“From the early 17th Century, the Netherlands was introduced to oriental porcelain thanks to the Dutch East India Trading Company”. says the Kunstmuseum Den Haag website. “Gloss, beautiful decorations and exotic forms appealed to the imagination, but only wealthy people could afford to buy these Chinese products. Before long… Delftware factories, such as De Porceleyne Fles, introduced imitation porcelain products made of Dutch clay. They aimed to copy the Chinese product as well as they could. And not without success, because their sophisticated, luxurious earthenware products were widely considered the best alternative to genuine (export) porcelain. That is how Delftware factories became the low-cost warehouses with an enormous impact on the Dutch way of life.”
Only one of those original Delftware factories is still in play. “Established in 1653, Royal Delft/De Koninklijke Porceleyne Fles is the only remaining Delft blue pottery factory from the 17th century. The world-famous Delft blue pottery is still painted entirely by hand according to centuries-old traditions.” says the Royal Delft website.
I was thrilled to learn Royal Delft hosts painting workshops where visitors can give this centuries-old painting tradition a try for themselves. I proposed the idea to Marian and, being the wonderful sister she is, she agreed to participate in this rare experience with me. The minute I saw the pretty front courtyard at Royal Delft, I knew we were in for a treat!

After getting settled, we got acquainted with the Royal Delft tools and materials. A 7¼” round, white plate was ready for each of us to decorate. We used two special brushes—one called a “tracker” to outline the design and the other a full round brush to color in the outlines. These brushes are custom-made at Royal Delft from marten and squirrel hair. We learned to mix the deep black paint with water to create various shades of black. As with most ceramic glazes, the final colors, those beautiful shades of blue, don’t appear until after the final firing.
We spent a few minutes practicing. In contrast, Royal Delft painters must practice for an entire year before any of their pieces are offered for sale! It takes an additional 7-9 years in Royal Delft’s internal training program to become a Royal Delft Master Painter.

Next we chose a design from the wide assortment on offer.

The instructors transferred our chosen designs to our plates using a traditional pouncing method. With this method, a copy of the design is pricked with pinholes and then a small bag of powdered charcoal is pounced over the pattern. The charcoal passes through the pin pricks and the design is transferred to the intended surface.

The transferred design can be seen on my plate below.

Here’s how my plate looked with the painting in progress—not perfect, but OK for a first try!

We left our painted plates with the instructors and went to explore the museum and the factory. It was late in the afternoon and the factory was quiet. It was fascinating, especially for someone who is actively learning to work with clay (see my previous post Still Talking About Tiles!), to peek into the actual production facility.

We were able to trace the process from plaster mold to finished piece.

This photo shows a variety of multi-part plaster molds into which clay is poured.

We saw shelves and shelves of pieces in progress.

These beautifully painted dishes appear to be ready for the final firing. The Royal Delft product catalogue listing, shown in the inset photo, describes it as a “Herring Dish”.

We had the pleasure of viewing a variety of Royal Delft products during our visit. It was interesting to compare traditional pieces such as this amazing Tulip Vase Pyramid…

… to more contemporary pieces like the Proud Mary figurines. Royal Delft introduced the Proud Mary series to give the iconic Blue Delft a contemporary look and feel. As stated on the Royal Delft website “With the launch of Proud Mary, Royal Delft puts the pride back into the craftsmanship of Delft Blue. The inspiration Proud Mary is named after Mary II, the wife of Stadholder Willem III. Mary II was a great admirer and collector of Delft Blue in the Dutch Golden Age.”

Another extraordinary piece that caught my eye is the Blow Away Vase pictured below. I’ve since learned this piece was created by the Swedish designers Front for the Dutch design firm Moooi. To create the Blow Away Vase for Moooi “Front digitised a Royal Delft vase and added some parameters to the material in the 3D software. It was then exposed to a simulated gust of wind.” The inset photo shows the vase from Front’s website.

Returning to my own far-less-impressive efforts, the kind folks at Royal Delft (Thank you so much!) were able to rush our plates through glazing, firing, packaging and shipping. My own Delftware plate arrived at our Amsterdam hotel the following week.

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My recent trip to the Netherlands and Belgium was packed with fun and inspiration. I’m sharing the experience in a series of blog posts including:
. Come Tiptoe Through the Tulips which is packed with all things tulip including a visit to Noorwijkerhout in the midst of the Bulb Region, the world-famous spring gardens at Keukenhof, and tulip-related highlights from the Rijksmuseum in Amsterdam.
. Milling the Water of Kinderdijk in which I share my visits—an afternoon bike ride and a sunrise hike—to the beautiful windmills of the Kinderdijk.
. Painting Delftware in Delft (this post).
. Expected and Unexpected Delights of Ghent in which I share the rich heritage and beautiful architecture of Ghent Belgium as well as unexpected delights such as innovative art installations and sweet wildlife sightings.
. Artworks as Big as Walls in Amsterdam sharing our experience visiting STRAAT, the graffiti and street art museum, in Amsterdam’s edgy arts community at NDSM.
One of my favorite things to do when traveling is to participate in a hands-on artmaking experience typical of my destination. I’ve shared a few of these experiences here on the blog:
. Making Curls and Swirls with a Filigree Master about my experience making traditional filigree jewelry in a master filigree artist’s studio in Gondomar, Portugal.
. My Sweet Sweetgrass Wreath about my experience making a sweetgrass wreath with an 8th generation sweetgrass basket maker in Hilton Head, South Carolina, USA.
. Learning from the Ancient Masters about my experience learning to make a small stone mosaic in the traditional way from a professional master mosaicist in Rome, Italy.
. My Batik Journey from Singapore to Miami about my experiences learning batik from an Indonesian batik artist while living in Singapore and a Malaysian batik artist while visiting Miami, Florida, USA.
The city of Delft in the Netherlands is a great place to visit. For more information, see the Holland Tourism website or the City of Delft website.
To learn more about visiting Royal Delft or participating in their painting workshops, see the Royal Delft website.
TIP regarding the Royal Delft painting workshop: to avoid costly shipping charges (eg €75,00 to ship to the USA), plan to pick up your finished project later in your trip or have it shipped to an European location.
As noted in this blog post, I’m actively learning to work with clay. Check out my previous blog posts Pinch Pot Bunny and Still Talking About Tiles! for a peek into my progress.
The Kunstmuseum in Den Haag, Netherlands features a permanent exhibition called Delftware WonderWare.

Today’s Takeaways

1. When travelling, seek out hands-on artmaking experiences typical of your destination.
2. Learn how people and events of the past have shaped your destination.
3. Consider including lesser-known destinations, such as the city of Delft, in your travel plans.

Europe Netherlands Travel

Milling the Water of Kinderdijk

Seeing the early morning sun rise behind the windmills of the Kinderdijk was unforgettable! These iconic structures are both beautiful and fascinating.

An individual windmill is an impressive sight…

…and a grouping of windmills is even more striking…

…but most spectacular of all is this iconic view of five identical windmills in a row!

It is, in fact, the concentration of old windmills and the story they tell that make the Kinderdijk area of the Netherlands very special. There are 19 windmills—all nearly 300 years old. They have been carefully preserved with 16 of the windmills still inhabited today.

The Kinderdijk windmills no longer mill water but are kept in good operating order and perform at least 60,000 rounds every year. The windmills are surrounded by a network of waterways, dikes and sluices in the low-lying lands of South Holland.
The below map provides a great overview of the Kinderdijk site and indicates where the windmills, waterways, and other points of interest, are located. Note the land to the right of the main waterway is called “Nederwaard” while the land to the left is “Overwaard”.

The Kinderdijk is so special, in fact, that in 1997 the Mill Network at Kinderdijk-Elshout was officially included as a UNESCO World Heritage Site. As explained on the UNESCO website, “The outstanding contribution made by the people of the Netherlands to the technology of handling water is admirably demonstrated by the installations in the Kinderdijk-Elshout area. Construction of hydraulic works for the drainage of land for agriculture and settlement began in the Middle Ages and have continued uninterruptedly to the present day. The site illustrates all the typical features associated with this technology – dykes, reservoirs, pumping stations, administrative buildings and a series of beautifully preserved windmills.”
My sister and I timed our recent visit to Kinderdijk to allow for an afternoon bike ride as well as a sunrise hike. There are great biking and walking paths throughout the site.

I was thrilled to learn the biking/walking paths are open around the clock (ie not only when the Kinderdijk UNESCO site facilities are open). This meant we could admire the windmills before and after the crowds—the Kinderdijk is, understandably, a very popular destination. The quiet times were especially great for taking photos without random strangers ruining my shots. Of course, with a little luck, other people (like the two cyclists below) can enhance a shot!

More often, though, I find myself patiently (well… maybe not so patiently!) waiting for strangers to move out of the frame. Or I find a way to reframe the view without the strangers. Patience may just be a photographer’s most valuable skill!

While the windmills make for stunning photos, it’s important not to forget their original purpose.
The Kinderdijk is situated in the Alblasserwaard polder at the confluence of the Lek and Noord rivers. A polder, by the way, is defined as “a piece of low-lying land reclaimed from the sea or a river and protected by dikes”. Amazingly, the entire Kinderdijk site lies 1.5 metres (4 feet) below sea level.
The below photo shows the Kinderdijk area looking down from the dike along the Noord River.

One can’t help but marvel at it all! How is it even possible to live 1.5 meters below sea level? What role do the windmills play? How did this all come about? The Kinderdijk website and audio tours provide a great explanation—here’s a condensed version:
A thousand years ago, the entire area was a big peat bog with little streams naturally carrying water down to the rivers and out to the sea. When the first permanent settlers arrived, they built their homes on the sand dunes and constructed dikes to keep the water away. When rainwater and groundwater continually filled in the enclosed areas, they forcibly removed the water. But as they drained more and more water, the peat bogs started to dry out and the land started to subside. This disrupted the natural balance between ground and water levels making the effort to keep the land dry more and more difficult. It became obvious that a coordinated effort was needed—individual efforts were useless in the fight against the water.
“In the thirteenth century, Count Floris V of Holland ordered the founding of District Water Boards. Water Boards were innovative organisations; cooperative efforts in which all residents contributed to keep these lands dry. Three Water Boards were founded here: Alblasserwaard, Overwaard and Nederwaard.”
The Water Boards constructed a system of ditches, basins and watercourses to direct the water from the polder to the river. At the lowest point, in the area known as Kinderdijk, a set of four sluices was created. A sluice is a waterway controlled at its head by a moveable gate. The sluice gates were opened at low tide to let the water flow into the river.
But the water kept fighting back. A disastrous flood, the St Elisabeth’s flood of 1421, wiped out the poorly maintained dikes causing thousands of people to drown. Soil subsidence and the ever-increasing effort to drain the water from the polders became more and more urgent. The Water Boards tried various techniques to keep the water out. Eventually, they determined that the best way to tackle the water problem was with windmills.

“Over the following centuries, trial and error leads to continued improvement of a system using windmills and pumping stations. The basins serve as buffers to contain the surplus water. The water in the lower basin can be lifted up into the upper basin in the event of excess water, but it can also be redirected back into the polder canals in times of drought. This is how the wind was harnessed in the service of the people, the land, and the water around the Kinderdijk area. Eventually, the Water Boards of Overwaard and Nederwaard had twenty windmills up and running between them, of which nineteen remain for you to admire and experience …today.”
Interestingly, the two Water Boards had different opinions about how to build windmills. The Nederwaard District Water Board started first, using brick to build round windmills (shown on the right below). These structures were very sturdy but also extremely heavy—they tended to sink into the boggy soil. Some even started to lean before construction was finished. Seeing this, the Overwaard District Water Board decided to build eight-sided structures out of wood and thatch (shown on the left below). The structures were lighter but they were very susceptible to fire.

Evidence of the original windmills is still visible today.

Another type of windmill on view at Kinderdijk is the hollow-post mill. The Blokweer Museum Mill, originally built in 1630 and the oldest of the Kinderdijk windmills, is an example.

This windmill and its grounds are set up as a living museum depicting how a miller and his family would have lived in the 1950s. It made for some lovely photos.

The Kinderdijk UNESCO World Heritage Site is a tribute to more than seven centuries of water management. The audio tour wraps up with this thought-provoking conclusion: “And as the rest of the world is struggling with rising sea levels, with flooding becoming a bigger problem all over the planet, we the Dutch, have been living below sea level for centuries. This area is living proof for what water management can achieve. So maybe there is a good reason why that picture of five windmills can be seen all over the world. It’s not just a pretty picture, it’s a true wonder of the world! And it could be an example for the world, as well.”

More Info

My recent trip to the Netherlands and Belgium was packed with fun and inspiration. I’m sharing the experience in a series of blog posts including:
. Come Tiptoe Through the Tulips which is packed with all things tulip including a visit to Noorwijkerhout in the midst of the Bulb Region, the world-famous spring gardens at Keukenhof, and tulip-related highlights from the Rijksmuseum in Amsterdam.
. Milling the Water of Kinderdijk (this post).
. Painting Delftware in Delft about the charming city of Delft and our experience trying a centuries-old painting tradition at the historic Royal Delft factory.
. Expected and Unexpected Delights of Ghent in which I share the rich heritage and beautiful architecture of Ghent Belgium as well as unexpected delights such as innovative art installations and sweet wildlife sightings.
. Artworks as Big as Walls in Amsterdam sharing our experience visiting STRAAT, the graffiti and street art museum, in Amsterdam’s edgy arts community at NDSM.
To learn more about the Kinderdijk UNESCO World Heritage Site check out the Kinderdijk website or the Kinderdijk UNESCO Official app.
See the World Heritage Convention United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organization (UNESCO) website for more information about this organization or to reference the UNESCO listing for the Kinderdijk. As noted on the UNESCO site “What makes the concept of World Heritage exceptional is its universal application. World Heritage sites belong to all the peoples of the world, irrespective of the territory on which they are located.”

Today’s Takeaways

1. Seek out UNESCO World Heritage Sites to visit and explore.
2. If possible, plan to visit a special destination at different times throughout the day.
3. Consider how technological accomplishments of the past can inform today’s challenges.

Deliberately Walking in Circles

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From Tulip Paper to Natural Fiber Papermaking

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Artworks as Big as Walls in Amsterdam

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Expected and Unexpected Delights of Ghent

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Painting Delftware in Delft

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Milling the Water of Kinderdijk

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